A Bit of Jewelry History

Author

Dateyyyy-mm-dd

abstractHistory of Marcus & Co., from founding to present.

RepositoryRauner Special Collections Library, Dartmouth College.

Call Numbermarcus-history-005

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A bit of Jewelry history
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Near the end of the 19th century, in the time of the clipper ships and the gold coast,
the era of Lillian Russell, the gas lit, Victorian and red plush, the days of the handle
bar mustache and tandem bicycles, women wore high button shoes and leg of mutton
sleeves, starched petticoats, and as much jewelry as the men who loved them could
afford to give. It was an era too, of merchant princes, and one of these, William Elder
Marcus, royal jeweler to the German court, emigrated to the United States to become
associated with Tiffany & Co. Later, he founded the firm of Marcus & Co. He was
a born craftsman, born to his craft, he loved and lived for jewels and spent most of his
life in the search for the ultimate.
Members of the firm traveled to the far corners of the earth, to the great bazaars of
Cairo, where precious stones were displayed on lustrous velvet and brilliant silks,
to the Persian Gulf where native divers gathered the softly hued pearls for his inspection,
on to Bombay where richly carved boxes, redolent of sandlewood and myrrh, held
cool and sparkling sapphires, emeralds of burning green, and so to the great jewelry
markets of Delhi where bearded and turbaned merchants displayed star sapphires and
black opals for Marcus' approval and choice.
The Indian steel magnate, Sir Dorab Ta-Ta introduced Marcus to a Persian jewel
merchant in Bombay. Until this time, the great pearl houses of India were closed to
all but Maharajahs and princes. Here, through this introduction, Marcus made the
largest individual purchase of pearls ever made. So keen was his eye, so exhaustive
his search, that in Agra, India, he found the flawless mate to the one huge pear-shaped
pearl he had bought 1500 miles away in Bombay.
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The story of the Jonker diamonds is legendary, what is not generally known, is that
Marcus & Co. were one of the very few jewelers to offer for sale to the public, one of
the 12 diamonds into which the Jonker was divided.
His clientele was the social register. Individual pieces were designed, and never
reproduced. Lillian Russell was the first woman to own a crysanthemum pearl and
diamond pin. Marcus made it, his library of designs filled 25 books. When the
elite left the city to escape the heat of the summer, moving to Bar Harbor, South-
hampton, Scotland or the Riviera, Marcus & Co. were entrusted with their jewels to
store until they returned. He introduced an appraisal service and bought old jewelry
and diamonds outright.
And so the years passed, from the Golden era of the nineties, through World War I,
across the roaring 20's, and weathering the depession to the threshold of World War II,
Marcus & Co. flourished like the proverbial green bay tree.
Then, in 1942, looking well into the future, and realizing that an era had passed,
Mr. Gimble, Mr. Ray Kramer of the Board, (who had made frequent visits to Marcus)
and Mr. William Gorman, all super salesmen, sold the idea to the head of Marcus & Co.
of moving this swank jewelry shop to Gimbels. The idea being Fifth Avenue jewels at
Gimbels Fifth Floor prices! There was much speculation as to the success or failure
of such a move; would the public go to the fifth floor of a department store to buy fine
jewelry? And so the decision was reached and the plans made.
For days the actual moving of the $000 worth of jewelery was plotted, every item in the
huge inventory was catalogued, photographed, and packaged in numerical order. Wall
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cases, fixtures, show cases, and then the armored trucks started rolling. The heavily
guarded stock of jewels was on its way to Gimbels. All day Saturday, all day Sunday,
the crew of carpenters and display men, electricians etc., worked to set up the Fifth
Avenue shop as it looked on Fifth Av enue.
And on Monday morning, complete in every detail, the Marcus Co. store was opened on
the fifth floor at Gimbels, all of the jewelry, all of the service, the designing, every-
t hing and everyone, right up to the head of Marcus Co. who still heads this department.
(leave out E. G. name).
Then how to tell the public that Marcus had moved to Gimbels, how to enforce at once,
this new policy of Fifth Avenue jewels at Gimbels' prices. A full page ad in the New
York Times and Herald Tribune told the country that Marcus & Co . million dollar
jewelry stock was being sold at an average of 50% off. A $1675 bracelet of diamonds
was offered at $975, a $3500 pearl necklace was tagged $695, fiery black opal rings
from an Australian mine now extinct were offered. Hand painted crystal cuff links,
cut by hand by the English Crystal king of the world, pear shaped oriental pearl earrings,
originally $25,000 to be sold for $3985, and the public came to gasp, look, and buy.
That was the day when 3 women almost came to fisticuffs over the same diamond
bracelet which each one wanted. When the day was over, the salespeople groggy,
Gimbel's management amazed, the tills were brimming with cash and checks. Surely,
Marcus on Fifth Avenue had never seen anything like this.
But one swallow doesn't make a summer and neither does one sale assure success, but
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success begets success, and soon manufacturers and banks were asking Marcus to
liquidate their stock and estates.
Among these was the Baskin Brothers sale of diamond solitaires. $000 stock at 000% off!
When Baskin was offered the post as executive head of a steel corporation, he called the
head of Marcus Co. whom he met, and while in a taxi, the entire inventory deal was
consummated. Marcus sold his entire jewelry stock. When Ostby & Barton, oldest
manufacturer of rings in the United States converted to defense instruments, Marcus
liquidated the business. There was the Temple stock, the Udall and Ballou, the H.
Healy stock. When Healy of Brooklyn, who had said he would retire after 75 years in
business, reached the age of 88, of all the stores in the country he chose Marcus to
sell to. The Sickles Company of Philadelphia, makers of Rhapsody rings, $000 stock
aat 000% off! In the Paul Flato stock, a topaz necklace worth $7000 was sold to a
Philadelphia banker for $1375. The French jeweler who brought his stock to Gimbels
to convert into American dollars. Only last month, America's largest manufacturer
of precious jewelry and diamond watches reorganized - and again came first to Marcus.
The Briggs estate with a 12 carat marquise diamond at $28,000.
And has the old personal touch of the original Marcus been lost, have the services he
offered been by-passed in favor of mass selling and commercial convential jewelry?
No! Marcus has retained all of the old featuresand service, the individual designing,
the gorgeous new jewelry, the remodeling of old jewelry, the appraisal department...
and added many new features.
Old jewelry may be exchanged for new.... almost like Alladin's lamp...a Tiffany or
Cartier, Rubel or other f amous named jewels may be bought at a fraction of their
original or replacement cost.
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There is the Brokerage Department or left-for-sale, where a customer may leave
her jewelry tagged with the price she wants to get for it. It remains in the show case
for her to see at any time, and when sold she gets the price she wanted, less 18%
which is the fee for selling, and which includes the cost of advertising it and the insurance.
The buying and selling departments are knows as Marcus Jewel Galleries , a name which
is registered in the U. S. Patent Office. There is a large work shop where customers
may see their jewelry being made, their diamonds set while they wait, a complete shop
where jewelry is made from the raw material to the finished product.
One of the diamond setters has taught many men who have since become experts also.
Today Marcus Jewel Galleries imports watch movements and cases them, they import
diamonds and mountings, they polish jewels, they have one of the largest if not the
largest, apprisal departments in the country.
An antique jewelry department with such a wide reputation that jewelers and owners of
antique shops as well as collectors come to Marcus Jewel Galleries over and over again
to purchase unusual jewelry at below market prices. The antiques range from that of
Josephine, to royal families and trifles from a New England attic. Today Marcus
Jewel Galleries buyers fly to Europe searching for treasures to add to their stock of
modern and antique jewelry.
What the buyers don't find, usually comes to Marcus Jewel Galleries and a new owner
by many and diverse routes. Not only the fabulous jewels, but antiques of mosaic,
enamel and filagree, sold to Marcus Jewel Galleries by individuals, by estates, by banks.
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Each piece has a story, some are in their original but worn boxes, the owner's
initials as well as the name of a once famous, now perhaps long since forgotten jeweler
stamped on the inside cover.
It is not at all unusual to see in a display case, a fabulous 40 carat emerald cut diamond
ring, flanked on one side by a 17th century pin for $79, on the other, a baby's solid
gold rattle. From all over come the pieces, and from all over, come the buyers.
Marcus Jewel Galleries seems to be the cross roads of the world, not only the jewelry
which gathers there, but the customers.
A Chinese who bought $26,000 worth of jewelry for export. A French dealer and his
wife, overheard speaking in French: "Cheaper than we sell in Paris." The Brazilian
who bought 4 pieces of jewelry to take back to South America, feeling assuered he could
buy better here.
The public bring their problems to our "Mr. Anthony", such as the woman wearing a ring
which had been on her finger for 50 years. Because it was stopping circulation, her
physician ordered it removed, but she was adamant in her refusal to take it off, saying
she vowed never to remove it. Marcus Jewel Galleries experts solved this problem.
First, the band was cut with a jeweler's tiny, circular saw, the band was spread, but
still on her finger, then a hollow gold sleeve was snugly fitted to envelope the open ends
of the ring, and the job done without taking if off. Then there was a customer who had
a ring which he wanted to wear over or under a glove. The back of the ring was split
and spread, part was drilled hollow, then an expansion spring concealed in the hollow...
another problem solved
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Today, the appraisal service and buying service originally conducted at the Fifth Avenue
store as a service to insurance companies and their clients, is recognized as one of the
outstanding in the country.
During World War II, Marcus Jewel Galleries believed to be one of the first, set up
booths in collaboration with the Treasury Department, to convert old jewelry into
cash to buy war bonds on the spot. War Bond workers supplied by the Treasury Depart-
ment worked frantically all day to handle the crowds.
Buying old jewelry is almost always a happy experience. Such as the time a woman
brought in a pair of gold ball earrings to sell. They had been handed down to her and
she didn't wear them. The appraiser examined the earrings, and found that they were
old indeed, and once had been knows as night earrings, actually miniature safes, because
when a concealed hinge was pressed, the ball opened to reveal a large diamond hidden
w ithin. The customer was delighted with the discovery, and the amount of money she
received for them.
One of our appraisal experts, Mr. Bronson, started his career as a diamond setter at the
age of 15. At 20 he assisted in the purchase of the Lucky Baldwin Estate, part of which
was the famous 25 carat ruby which later was sold to William Randolph Hearst for
$200,000. A few years later, when the Jonker diamond in its rough state came to his
hands, he marked it to show how it should be cleaved. To this day he maintains it is
the finest stone he ever handled, because its purity of color was such, that the diamond
actually seemed invisible when put in a glass of water. He likes to recall the thrill of
purchasing a famous set of buttons, studded with rose cut diamonds ranging from 3 to
15 carats which was worn by the Arch Duke Joseph of Austria in the 17th century on a
ceremonial robe. The set later was purchased by Col. E. H. R. Green .
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During Mr. Bronson's career as an appraiser, he has seen every type of diamond known,
black, red, green, and every type of ruby, sapphire and emerald.
Another appraiser, Mr. Manziano, had his first taste of jewelry at New York University
where he studied gemology. After working with gems, appraising, sorting, and all
of the attendant strain that goes with it, training trotting horses relieves the t ension.
Mr. Manziano not only trains horses but breeds them as well, and his horses have been
in the Hambletonian, won races at Roosevelt Raceway, Saratoga, and he is particularly
proud of King Majesty, the only horse of his color racing today. A snow white trotter
with spots and undertones of almost every color in the rainbow.
Mr. Siegel has had years of experience as an appraiser. Commencing as a boy
he later worked with the largest colored stone house in the country. Part of his
knowledge came with helping to choose the colored stones which were used in the
Diamond Jim Brady collection. It included all types of locomotives, made with
jewels of every color and shape, a walking cane with a large star sapphire, a jeweled
eye glass case, pens and pencils, and dozens of full dress sets. Mr. Siegel spent
many hours with Diamond Jim while he personally checked on the selection of jewels
which were to be used.
Mr. Van Slochem, Marcus Jewel Galleries manager, is a jeweler almost by birth.
He was born in Amsterdam, the heart of the diamond industry. Not only was his father
a diamond cutter, but his mother was a diamond cleaver, one of the most difficult
tasks in all of the jewelry industry, because one false move could ruin a fortune.
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In the 1890's the Van Slochem family came to America and settled in New Jersey ,
where they opened the first diamond cutting factory in the United States, Mr. Van
Slochem is recognized as an outstanding authority on watches and has served railroad
and government officials in special order work.
Whether it is new or old jewelry, a gold crystal umbrella handle with a rim of matched
rubies, a diamond necklace with a 10 carat pear shaped drop, a suspender and garter
set with solid gold parts and matching gold ornamented wallet, a $2 scarf pin to convert
to a charm on a bracelet, people from all walks of life realize that jewelry is not only
for adornment, but also an investment, and they come to Marcus Jewel Galleries.
A rancher from Texas, a vice president of an oil company, a star from Hollywood,
a girl from main street, the truck driver, or the chauffer driven society matron,
they come to find and buy the jewelry they have always wanted, or to dispose of the
jewelry they have no need for. Sometimes they sell their old, use the money to buy
new.
Marcus Jewel Galleries like a diamond has many facets. The designing and made to
order jewelry. Individually designed to reflect the personality of the wearer. Customers
bring in their assortment of old jewelry, rings, bar pins, earrings, loose stones,
sometime wrapped in handkerchiefs, bits of tissue paper, in chamois bags, or in
jewel cases, old fashioned jewelry kept for sentiment's sake but actually not wearable.
The designer advises on what can be done, capturing the desires of the customer, or
suggesting a design. An approximate cost is estimated, and then the designer goes to
work. Several sketches are submitted, one approved, and the work is started.
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But not all jewelry is imported, not all is made on the premises, choice items are
bought from leading manufacturers, and a common expression heard on the fifth floor
very frequently: "I saw this on Fifth Avenue, what price can I get it for here at Gimbels?"
Marcus Jewel Galleries endeavors to stress how much it can save the customer by
adopting the best means possible to reduce the cost. What isn't manufacturered by
Marcus Jewel Galleries they have manufacturered for them, setting their own stones and
diamonds in their own shop, thus cutting down the cost, because the diamonds and other
stones are imported direct and at a savings, and the setters cost is saved as well.
They import pearls from Japan, cultured pearls so fine inquality that often they have
to be put through an x raymachine to determine whether they are wild or cultured - even
experts cannot tell.
Marcus Jewel Galleries buys black opals from Australia, jewelry from France, diamonds
from Belgium.
We like to recall some of the pleasant little anecdotes which make up a day at the fifth
floor. For example, the gentlemen who in appreciation , visits Marcus every year to
buy a perfect diamond for each executive who has been with his firm for 20 years.
Mr. Kantor who serves him always looks forward to these visits.
There is the story of the man who wanted to buy a large diamond but at the time could not
afford it. Nor did he want to wait until he could. He was told that he could purchase it
on the budget plan or at any time he chose, he could return the ring, get full credit toward
a larger one, and today the original $200 purchase has been parlayed into a lovely large
ring at $13,500, the customer making exchanges at full credit over a period of time.
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In the mail one morning was a post card addressed to Marcus Jewel Galleries. On the
reverse side was an order for a $4500 diamond ring. The order was filled, and an
acknowledgement of it was received expressing satisfaction both with the ring and the
service.
A doctor from Buffalo made 4 separate trips to shop all of New York for a particular
piece of jewelry... and was delighted when he finally found just what he wanted at the
fifth floor.
One of the salesmen likes to tell the story of the man who wanted a pair of earrings,
but couldn't find a pair to suit; he said he would wait a year if necessary, but preferred
not to. Fortunately a customer came in shortly after to sell a pair of earrings, and the
first customer bought them - exactly what he had been looking for - and he didn't have
to wait a year.
The wife of one of the heads of a large soap company stopped in one day for a few little
trinkets and bought 2 diamond bracelets... not in the trinket class.
The fickle customer who buys, wers for a time, grows tired of her jewelry and sells
it, repeating the buying, wearing, tiring and selling process over and over again. (We
have not yet met her husband).
The member of the police force in a distant city - his son living in New York selected an
engagement ring at Marcus Jewel Galleries and then had his father come on to New York
to approve the girl and the ring.
A well known jeweler who sent his wife to Marcus Jewel Galleries to buy some jewelry.
The customer who has a young girl wore nothing but antique jewelry, now grown older
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has sold it all to buy modern pieces.
Customers buying diamonds are told the factors which are important in buying a
stone. That one important point, is color. The customer may take a diamond right
to the window to see the true color in daylight.
Of course not everything has always been beer and skittles, and in the early days of
the fifth floor, there were some never to be forgotten nightmares. One morning, the
head of the department (E. G. ) arrived early in anticipation of a big day following
an advertisement offering a large assortment of jewelry at a fraction of its cost.
And was dismayed to find that it was impossible to get to the diamond counters because
they had been pushed into a stockade which encompassed the departments, the stockade
a maze which led to a hastily prepared counter selling hard-to-get hams. (All this
happened to a guy who doesn't eat ham).
But those days have gone into the limbo of the past, and today Marcus Jewel Galleries
strives to keep the best merchandise and at the greatest savings. The endeavor to
stress thatthey can save the customer money by adopting the best possible means to
reduce the cost.
It seems fitting to mention here, some of the people who are associated with the head
of Marcus Jewel Galleries. One, the principal buyer, entered the jewelry field after
finishing high school at the age of 16. Working with the head of the department, he
first learned to grade melee(small diamonds that sometimes run 300 to a carat). Now,
19 years later, Clifton Stetson is recognized as one of the outstanding diamond men in the
industry. His hobby -
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developing a quartet with his two small children and his wife - all of whom have beautiful
singing voices.
Another assistant and buyer, Philip Stetson, a graduate of the American Gemological
Society who left his position as assistant to the advertising manager of a large department
store to enter the jewelry field. He is an active church worker, superindentant of a
Sunday School and is presently engaged in raising funds to build a parish house for the
church.
Burton Elliott, assistant buyer, is presently in Europe visiting Antwerp, Holland , France,
England and Italy , retracing the footsteps of his father, calling at the old firms while
developing new sources, stopping at Antwerp's Diamond Club where his father was once
thought to be the youngest member. History is repeating itself as he shops Europe as his
father did before him.
And what of the man who heads Marcus Jewel Galleries , preferring that his name not be
mentioned, he lives breathes and loves jewelry.
And the policy which was started, Fifth Avenue merchandise at fifth floor prices still
prevails. Marcus Jewel Galleries never loses sight of the customer who wants a pair of
plain gold cuff links, or an inexpensive pair of gold earrings. They aim to get business
from the customer who shops 47th Street as well as the one who shops Van Cleef and Arpels-
and save both of them money.
But leave it to Gimbels to leave nothing undone, so when it remodelled its street floor, it
set up a new jewelry department there which carries and fills in such items as are not
carried on the fifth floor. On the street floor you may buy a gold baby ring at $1, and here
you will find all the noted national brand watches and diamonds. Diamond rings from
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$19.95 to $5000. Lovely old amber, polished and set in modern bracelets, earrings,
necklaces in 10 and 14 kt. gold as low as $15 and about every kind of best selling
jewelry you will find in the better jewelry stores. It is not unusual to see displayed
and offered for sale on the street floor department, hundreds of cultured pearl neck-
laces that have just arrived from Japan and offered for sale as low as $12.95. Others
running $1000 and up. Gold baby lockets or a new gold disc to dangle from a bracelet
showing a bee hovering over a bee hive and engraved: "You are as sweet as honey".
We have had cases where customers would make a selection on the street floor and
hold to compare with an item on the fifth floor. We recall a case where a customer
finally bought both.
The famous watches and products sold there may be purchased at the most convenient
terms, more and more people are buying their jewels and more people than ever are
using Gimbels convenient budget payment plan.
That's the story of jewelry for adornment and investment.
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