Geographical Items on North Greenland: Encyclopedia Arctica 14: Greenland, Svalbard, Etc. Geography and General
GEOGRAPHICAL ITEMS ON NORTH GREENLAND
GEOGRAPHICAL ITEMS ON NORTH GREENLAND
(in alphabetical order)
Adam Biering Land,
miles west of the head of Independence Fjord. It is largely locked in
by the Inland Ice, except in the nrotheast and east where it borders
Etussuk Valley and Heilprin Land , respectively. Its rocky heights, which
rise to about 3,500 ft. , are intersected by a number of
ravines, some of which are surprisingly fertile. VALMUEDALEN, a broad and
level valley, between Adam Biering
have well-watered bottom land (clay plains and raised level beaches of gravel
producing a rich crop of grasses and yellow poppies; the gentle
slopes show
Biering Land from
hunting country; they shot 17 musk oxen in Valmuedalen alone. Hares and
lemmings were numerous, and birds, sighted with their young brood,
included ptarmigan, turnstones, sanderlings, ringed plovers and the long–
tailed skua.
Greenland 50 w
Ad. Jensen Fjord,
Long Fjord. From its entrance at lat. 83° 10′N. Ad. Jensen Fjord trends about
17 miles southeastward to the face of the large Tjalfes Glacier. A wide
channel connects the middle portion of the fjord with Th.Thomsen Fjord
to the westward.
Greenland
Advance Bay,
northward of latitude 79° N. The bay, which penetrates the shore to a depth
of about 3 miles, is entered between a point about 2 miles northeastward
of Cape Scott and a northward projecting point, about 3-1/2 miles north–
northeastward; the inner half of the bay has a width of less than 1 mile.
Greenland
Cape Agassiz,
west point of a small triangular peninsula which projects northwestward
into Peabody Bay, close to the southern end of Humboldt Glacier.
The inner portion of the peninsula is completely locked in by the Inland
Ice. A group of islets (Mc
and close off the face of the southernmost end of Humboldt Glacier. Another
chain of islets extends northwestward about 1 mile from the cape.
Greenland 90 w
Cape Shackleton (Agparssuit)
about 2 miles southwestward of the large island Kugdlikorssuit.
A conspicuous headland, rising sheer from the sea to an elevation of over
1,400 ft., forms the southern and southwestern side of the island.
Thousands of guillemots breed in the cliffs, and fresh eggs may be obtained
here in large quantities toward the end of June. The strait between Cape
Shackleton and Kugdlikorssuit has been navigated by vessels proceeding
northward by the inside route.
Greenland
Cape Alexander (Uvdlerssuak; Safarlik)
southeastern entrance point of Sm
The large cape, which projects westward for about 5 miles, rises to over
1,100 ft., its rock presenting a striking m
and dark columnar basalt. Two
mainland to the eastward. The coast in this vicinity is generally free o f ice in August
and September, and stretches of open water occur throughout the winter
because of frequent storms; the ice-foot, when it exists, is
impassable, owing to huge iceblocks pressed onto this coast by the waves.
Baffin, however, who first sailed within sight of the cape on July 4th,
1616. His farthest north record ,
Greenland
Allison Bay
lat 74° 30′N. It is entered between Holm
end of Melville Bay, and the mainland shore to the northeastward. In the
outer part of Allison Bay the mainland shore consists principally of glaciers,
but the inner end of this shore is formed
table-like mountain, known as Wandel
3,000 ft. In the bay and its approaches are many small islands, including
the conspicuous Devils Thumb.
Greenland 55
Cape Atnoll (Kangarssuk)
lies about 4 miles south-southwest of the southern entrance
point of Wolstenholme Fjord. The cape is at the western end of the
wide Pingorssuit plateau which rises to almost 1,000 ft. and is
diversified by valleys, streams and lakes.
Greenland 120 w.
Augpilagtok (Augpa
lartok)
of northern West Greenland, with a population of 66 (1930), is on the
northwestern side of Augpilagtok Island, in a position
13 miles northeastward of Upernivik Colony. The outpost has a manager's
house and store combined, a chapel-school, two warehouses and about 16
Greenlander dwellings. Sealing and halibut fishing are the main source
of livelihood of the natives. Supply ships anchor in the small bay
directly off the settlement. A closed bay, south of the outpost, offers
shelter during the summer months, but the narrow entrance freezes over
as early as The end of September and remains frozen until July.
Greenland 600 w.
Baffin Bay,
depths of nearly 3,000 fathoms, is bounded on its eastern side by the west
coast of Greenland, and on its western (American) side by Baffin ,
Ellesmere ,
Baffin Bay connects with Davis Strait, and at its northern end, in about lat.
78° N., with Smith Sound. The latter, together w
Channels, forms a passage to the Arctic Sea. There is also communication
with the Arctic Sea through Lancaster and Jones Sounds, which lead from the
western side of Baffin Bay.
Baffin Bay, and in occasional winters the sea ice is said to fill the bay
solidly from shore to shore. The Baffin Bay pack has its greatest extent
in arch, and its least in August and September. NORTH WATER, the most
persistent ice-free area, located at the head of Baffin Bay, off Smith Sound,
is one of the most widely discussed features of the bay. Although a number of
theories have been advanced to explain the existence of open water her e , recent
opinion inclines to the view that the ice in Smith Sound is so strong that it
resists the current, while the ice formed just to the southward is weaker and
is swept away, leaving open water behind it. The break-up of the fast ice
in Smith Sound temporarily chokes North Water, but eventually the area clears,
and its extent is greatest in late summer.
way, but it seems established that a general cyclonic circulation prevails,
so that the western and most ice -encumbered zone evacuates through Davis
Strait, while a compensating d
side.
Baffin Bay cont.
entered the waters of what later was named Baffin Bay was John Davis, in 1587.
Searching for a northwest passage he reached lat. 72° N. on the Greenland side,
and lat. 73° N. on the American side, forcing his way through the middle icepack
of the bay. In 1616, Baffin, in the tiny Disvovery , w
was the first to reach the bay's northern end, at lat. 77° 45′N. Barred by ice
from entering Smith Sound, and with strong westerly winds preventing his venturing
into Jones and Lancaster Sounds, the navigator returned southward along the
Greenland coast. With the search for a northwest passage abandoned for nearly
200 years, no further official attempt to traverse Baffin Bay was madeuntil 1818, when
John Ross and W.E. Parry took their vessels, the Isabella and Alexander , to a
point in lat. 76° 54′N., northwest of Cary Islands. Turning southwestward to
the Canadian side, they reached and entered Lancaster
over 50 miles. Parry, in the sailing vessel Hecla , again
Confusion of east-west & north-south crossings Lancaster Sound in 1819 and 1824, his 1819 expedition leading him as far westward
as Melville Sound. In 1829 John Ross took the first steamer (the Victory )
across Baffin Bay. The 150-ton craft reached Lancaster Sound without difficulty
but on
off Boothia Peninsula and subsequently abandone
date ? in --- in the Windward pushed through Baffin Bay on their voyages to latitudes farther
northward. Between 1898-1902, Sverdrup's Fram wintered first at Cape Sabine in Smith
Sound and later in two neighboring places on the southern coast of Ellesmere
Island. Peary's
entrance point of the Smith Sound Route, traversed Baffin Bay in 1905-6 and 1908-09.
Re
the
the whaling expeditions of all nations to these parts of the Arctic zone. (See also
Mellville Bay.)
Breitfuss, Arktis, p. 149 [ ]
Greenland 74 w.
Benedict Fjord,
entered between Cape Washington (83° 36′N., 38° W.), and Cape Cannon,
the northwestern extremity of Gerturde Rask Land. The fjord extends southward
for about 10 miles, receiving the glow of the large A. Harmsworth Glacier
at its head. A short arm trends southward from the inner southern side of the
fjord. Both shore s are largely f or med by glaciers.
Greenland 50 w.
Benton Bay ,
of Humbold Glacier, between Cape Forbes (79° 55′N.) and Cape Clay ,
about 9 miles to the northwestward. The coastal hills rise to nearly
900 ft., with heights farther inland increasing to over 2,000 ft.(Mt.
Nordlyset).
Ch. AAF Aer. Ch (8) 1944
Greenland
Bessels Fjord,
Channel, where it is entered between Cape Bryan (81° 06′N., 64° 15′W.),
and Cape Maynard, about 3 miles east-northeastward. The very narrow fjord, which
receives the flow of numerous small active glaciers, trends south-south–
eastward for about 28 miles. The surrounding mountains are steeply
graded and rather high. Lauge Koch, who investigated the fjord in June 1922,
found the middle and inner parts covered with very old ice. Several
polar bears were observed near the head.
Emil Bessels, chief of the scientitic staff of Hall's Polaris Expedition.
Bowdoin
Bugt
Bay
(in northwest Greenland)
Greenland
Inglef
ie
ld Bay cont.
the fast ice had broken up, except for some scattered pieces and bergs at
the head, a most unusual condition for this time of the year.
Greenland
Cape Brevoort
Cape Summer, is a high limestone cliff above which the land rises to about
2,000 ft. The cape is the eastern extremity of Nyeboe Land, an ice-free area
between Newman Bay and St. George Fjord. Lauge Koch, in June 1922, found
huge ice-blocks pressing against this part of the coast and the ice-foot proper
generally impossible to detect.
American J. Carson Brevoort ,
Explorations in the Ice Zones, 295
Greenland 125
Cape Bridg
e
man
Greenland (Peary Land),lies about 17 miles northeastward of the north–
western entrance point of Fre de rick E. Hyde Fjord.
trends southeastward to Cape Eils Rasmussen, which is Peary Land's eastern–
most extremity.
down to a low shore covered with pebbles, chiefly granite. Six miles
inland, however, a range of hills, called the Daly Mountains, rises
steeply out of the plain. Altitudes here are over 4,500 ft. The area,
according to the chart, is widely covered with Highland Ice.
most point reached by the Danish Expedition of 1906-08.
Greenland
Brönlund Fjord,
side of that fjord between Cape Harald Moltke (82° 09′N., 31° 03′W.) , and Cape
Knud Rasmussen, about 2 1/2 miles southward. Brönlund Fjord trends northwestward
and then due westward for about 12 miles to a large depression, named Wandel
Valley which leads to the long and narrow Midsummer Lake to the westward.
The northern shore is lined by a series of steeply sloping sandstone bluffs (about
2,000 ft. high) which extend westward from the wide river delta north of the
mouth to Wandel Valley and beyond. The southern shore is lower and broken
by the mouths of several rivers, draining the ice cap in the interior of
Heilprin Land. Both shores are fertile enough in stretches to su
and an abundance of hares. The fjord itself was found by Freuchen of the
First Thule Expedition (1912) to be filled with a great number of icebergs
driven into it from the head of Independence Fjord. A great number of seals were see [ ]
seen all over the ice.
has since been surveyed by Rasmussen and Freuchen (1912) and by Lauge Koch(1921).
Rasmussen reported find
occupation, on both sides of the entrance
Fjord; Wandel Valley.)
Greenland 72 w
Cape Bryan
northwest Greenland, forms the western entrance point of Bessels
northernmost point of Washington Land. The cape rises to about 2,100 ft. The low
Hannan Island, close off the northern extremity of Cape Bryan, appears to be
the terminal moraine of a large glacier now extinct. A bank off the eastern
side of the island se r v
Expedition.
Greenland 89 w
Cape Bryant
Nyeboe Land in northwest Greenland. The coast here changes its direction to the
southward to form the western shore of St. George Fjord. The edge of the
polar pack, which generally lies close up to the coast westward of Cape Bryant,
here turns in an approximately northeastern direction toward Beaumont
Island, situated more than 45 miles to the northeastward. The mountain
range south of Cape Bryant rises to over 3,200 ft.
Peary Auxiliary Expedition of 1894.
MG 65, 194
Greenland
Cairn Point
face of gneiss rock ,
forms the southeastern entrance point of the northern end of Smith Sound.
The point is the Pelham Point of Inglefield (1852) who reached his farthest
north in this vicinity. Hayes renamed the point in 1876, after finding a
cairn with records, left there in 1855 by Captain Hartstene, who commanded
an expedition for the relief of Kane's party.
Greenland 100
Camp Scott (72° 46′N 54° 47′W.),
1930-31, was set up on the souther [ ] shore of Natsiorsiorfik Island close off
the head of Uperniviks Isfjord in the Uperniviks District of northern West
Greenland. The site was admirably suited for meteorological work; close
proximity to the continental glacier enhanced the possibilities of making extensive
studies there and a prominent hill promised a location for making balloon
ascensions. Aerological observations made afforded much needed information
about the general information about the general circulation of the atmosphere
in nrthern regions.
Greenland
Cary (Carey) Islands
islets and rocks in the northeastern part of Baffin Bay, about 50 to 65 miles
due westward of Thule settlement in northern West Greenland. The islands vary
in size from 2 miles in diameter downwards , and are characterized by terraced
boulder beaches, rising stair
thes e beaches tower steep, flat-topped cliffs, some of which rise to 1,000 ft.
The ground among the islands is notoriously foul, but the surrounding waters
are fairly open, even in winter, and seals, therefore, are probably common
in the vicinity. J.M. Wordie, who explored some of the islands in 1937,
found a comparatively luxuriant vegetation here; a large number of eider ducks
and guillemots had breeding places in the cliffs.
north established by the John Ross Expedition of 1818, but the islands have
been known since the days of Baffin, who discovered and named them in 1616.
Sound and its Explorations, p. 334
Greenland 96
Cass Fjord,
Cape Clay (79° 59′N., 64° 55′W.) and Cape Webster, about 9 miles west–
northwestward. The fjord trends northeastward and then northward for over
20 miles, terminating at a point named Bjørnehiet (Bear s Lair
end of the fjord is very narrow and runs between shores attaining elevations of
from 800 to 1,700 ft. Numerous small rivers debouch along these inner shores.
ruins and fox traps. Seals were observed some distance in the fjord.
Greenland 90
Cape Chalon (Pitorafik)
is a
Alongside the southern foot of the bluff runs a black trap dyke, about
2 miles long and 30 to 50 ft. thick, forming a natural retaining wall
for the mass of soft rock towering above it. The waters in the vicinity
are a favorite gathering place for walrus in spring, at which time Eskimos
from all over t [ ] e region come here for hunting. Pitorarfik, a small
Eskimo settlement, stands back of the cape.
Greenland
Cape Chalon (Peterawik)
Greenland
J.C. Christensen Land,
Cape Peter Henrik (82° 03′N., 25° 20′W.), the western entrance point of Hagen
Fjord, and Astrup Fjord, about 50 miles to the westward. The section extends
southward to
lands is only vaguely defined. From Cape Peter Henrik the coast line
is a continuous range of sediment rock, increasing in height to the westward.
Several small glaciers, issues of the Inland Ice, crop out among the rock
formation close to the mouth of Astrup Fjord,where altitudes are over 2,200 ft.
[ ] . The interior of J.C. Christensen Land has
elevations of over 5,000 ft. About half of the land is covered with Highland Ice.
Mylius-Erichsen Expedition (1906-08.)
Greenland
Cape Clarence Wyckoff,
east Greenland , projects about 12 miles northwestward of Cape Henry Paris
The cape forms a broad point of land, on which Mt. Clarence Wyckoff
rises to about 2,800 ft.
Greenland
Cape Cleveland
of Mc Cormick Bay in the Thule District of northern West Greenland.
The ba s tionlike cape, which is composed of yellow sandstone, projects
westward from the western extremity of Red Cliff Peninsula, a large, ice-covered
promontory , on the northern side of Murchison Sound and Inglefield Gulf.
Greenland 60 w.
Conger Inlet
projection to the eastward. It is entered between Cape Christiansen
(83° 25′N., 39° 40 W.), on Lookwood Island, and Cape Kane,
about 5 miles northeastwards whence it curves southeastward and
then southward to connect with the inner end of We [ ] precht Inlet.
Greenland 40
Conical Rock (Iganak)
of Baffin Bay, about 2 miles southward of Parker Snow Point and about 1 1/2
miles offshore. The sharply -pointed, ragged islet rises to about 1,000 ft.
and forms a conspicuous landmark.
Greenland
Conical Rock (Iganak)
Greenland 130
Cape Constitution
in northwest Greenland, is formed by a steep mountain that rises
to 1,500 ft. The cliff of the cape is black , a n d the crags are
overhanging, hiding the top from sight when viewed close by.
Franklin Island , ( 6 miles by 3), the largest of the islands in
Kennedy Channel,lies about 3 miles north of Cape Constitution.
Between the northwestern end of Franklin Island and the Ellesmere Island
shore to the northwestward the fairway of Kennedy Channel is less than
12 miles wide.
of the Kane Expedition in June, 1854.
AAF Aer. Ch (8) 1944
Greenland 200
Crimson Cliffs (Sanerak),
and Parker Snow point about 35 miles to the northwestward, is a concave
shoreline of steep bluffs and precipitous brown cliffs interrupted
by numerous small glaciers and surmounted by a succession of ice-domes with
their connecting saddles. The cliffs, which rise to from 1,000 to 2,000 ft.,
are favorite breeding grounds of millions of little auks. The fertilizing
effect of these birds combined with the reddish tints of the sedimentary
rock, give the cliffs in summer an unexpected warmth of color . However, the name,
which originated with Sir John Ross, derives from other causes. In early
summer, after the melting of the snow is well under way, large quantities
of
"red" or "pink" snow which lends a crimson glow to the cliffs in daytime
and may even cause pink reflections in the sky. The snow-free margin at the
foot of the cliffs is narrow, but has traces of verdure. Ross reported the
presence of black foxes and hares,
passing the cliffs.
Greenland 60
Dallas Bay,
Greenland, is entered between Cape Kent (79° 05′N., 67° 55′W.)
and Cape Scott, approximately 13 miles to the east-northeastward. The bay trends
southeastward for about 4 miles. Sever
the bay, into which drains a river. Lauge Koch reported large lakes to
the eastward.
Greenland
Daugaard-Jensen Land
Greenland 120
Devil's Thumb (Kuvdlorssuak),
of Melville Bay in northwest Greenland, rises at the southern end of an island
lying about 2 miles off the northern end of Holms Island. The Thumb, which figures
more prominently in accounts of voyages up this coast than any other of the
distinctive features here, is a high pillar looking like a gigantic thumb
extending upward from a hand. In 1943, J. M. Wordie reported that the summit
of Devil's Thumb is at an elevation of about 1,800 ft., the upper 600 ft.
constituting the thumb proper.
end of Devil's Thumb island, consisted
of about 10 houses of turf and stones and one or two summer tents.
Greenland
Cape Dudley Digges (Kaersok)
northwestern entrance point of ParkerSnow Bay. The cape is a precipitous cliff,
about 800 ft. high and clear of snow, with yellowish vegetation at the top.
Baffin discovered it in 1616, naming it after Sir Dudley Digges, one of his
sponsors. The early whalers and seamen steered by it. Since then it has been
passed by many a Polar Expedition bound for Etah and the regions beyond.
Greenland
Etah
in the Thule District of northwest Greenland, was, until 1937, the northern–
most settlement of the Polar , or Smith Sound Eskimos. It is the ulti–
mate port of call in Smith Sound which a vessel can safely visit and
leave the same season. The settlement, which consists of a few primitive
habitations, is only sporadically occupied by the Eskimos. The harbor,
with depths of from 15 to 20 fathoms, is open to southward, and is
usually free of ice late in July and August
reaches of Smith Sound are frozen over, a bridge of ice permits the natives
of the region to cross from Etah over into Ellesmere Island in Canada.
regions farther north, was a winter base of Peary's
Mac Millan's Crocker Land Expedition (1913-17), the Oxford Univ se es rsity
Ellesmere Island Expedition (1934-35), and the Mac Gregor Arctic
Expedition (1937-38). Mac Millan considered Etah in many respects one of
the finest wintering places along this stretch of coast, affording accessi–
bility of hunting grounds both on land and at sea and an accessible
gateway to the Inland Ice. Temperatures recorded here by his expedition for
a period of four years showed an absolute
absolute minimum of-42° F.
was 55.3° F., and the average minimum - 32° F., with the cold waters
of Smith Sound and a continuous, extensive, prolonged ice-cover lowering
the average temperature and retarding the advance of spring until May.
Absolute humidity was found to be low throughout the year,
with clear days prevailing over cloudy and partly cloudy ones, although
Etah contin ed Greenland
and August, and even in mdwinter, when the foehn was blowing. Mirages
were frequent in early spring
began in August and the beark-up late in April.
observations were obtained by the American Meteorological Expedition
(1937-38), led by C. J. Mac
Actual flying was done at Etah first by the Mac
1934, where Commander Richard E. Byrd was in charge or aviation, and then
by the Mac Gregor Expedition of 1937-38, with Lt. Commander I. Schlossbacn
in charge.
AAF Aer. Ch. (20) 1944
Greenland,
Cape Forbes,
at the northeastern end of Peabody Bay, just north of Humboldt Glacier.
Putlerssuak Island lies immediately off Cape Forbes. Various old
Eskimo remains have been found on the island and in the vicinity of the
cape.
Greenland
Foulke Fjord
from the head of Hartstene Bay on the eastern side of Smith Sound.
The fjord is entered between Port Foulke and Reindeer Point, about 1-1/2
mile to the northward, a
narrow passage that connects with Alida Lake, a glacial pool
dips the large Brother John Glacier. Depths within the fjord are almost everywhere
over 15 fathoms
the water's edge. Etah, until 1937 the northernmost settlement of the Polar,
or Smith Sound Eskimos, and ultimate port-of-call in Smith Sound, stands on the
outer northern shore of the fjord. Foulke Fjord is usually free of ice in
July and August.
the most widely distributed plants here including purple saxifrage, Arctic [ ]
poppy, alpine chickweed, Kentucky blue grass, Arctic heather and mountain
aven areas? . By the middle of July the grass stands strong and green. Thirty-five
varieties of birds nest in the cliffs. Caribou find pasturage on the northern
shore. Walrus, seal and polar bear are plentiful in the waters of Smith
Sound outside the fjord.
after his ship, the Advance , had passed the southernmost point of Inglefield
Land, but the first to enter the fjord was Lt. Hartstene, of the U.S. barque
Release , who came here in August,1855, seeking news of Kane's Expedition.
Hayes, in command of the schooner Un
ber,1860, and established winter quarters here. Hayes, and after him Bessels,
of the Hall Expedition
and ascertained
Foulke Fjord cont.
(Nares Expedition) visited Brother John Glacier in July, 1875, "crossing its
face to the other side of the valley. The fjord and the surrounding lands have
since been investigated by a number of parties, some of which wintered on its shores,
such as Peary's Windward Expedition (1899-1900), Mac Millan's Crockerland Expedit–
ion (1913-17), the Oxford University Ellesmere Island Expedition (1934-35), and the
Mac Gregor Arctic Expedition (1937-38). In 1906, Peary's
rarily beached for repairs at the head of the fjord. Lauge Koch, in 1922,
confirmed the constant forward movement of the Brother John Glacier. (For weather
and temperature data see under ETAH).
MG 130, p. 30, 340 AAF Aer. Ch (20) 1943
Greenland
Frederick E. Hyde Fjord,
northward of Cape John Flagler (83° 15′N., 25° W.) and about 17 miles
southeastward of Cape Bridgeman. The giant fjord, which is almost 100
miles long and from 5 to 10 miles wide, trends west-southwestward and terminates
at Nordpasset, a 10-mile valley, leading to O.B. Bøggild Fjord which cuts into
Peary Land from the north. Four arms issue from the middle and inner fjord. Three
of these - Freya, Thor and Odin Fjords - lead southward to the various glaciers
at their head; the larger Frigg Fjord, branching in a position about 65 miles
from Cape John Flagler, extends northward to a circular valley where four
glaciers debouch.
up of clay plains, with only a few stones , but numerous mussel shells, most
likely old moraines re-deposited by the water. Inland the mountains rise to
considerable altitudes, especially on the south side of the fjord, where
a widely glacier-covered surface platea u attains elevations, of nearly 4,000 ft. Here,too, at
some distance from the fjord, is
visible, volcano-shaped Mount Vistas (6,500 ft.
extend northward in the direction of Frederick E.Hyde Fjord and Freya Fjord.
Glaciers from Hans Taussen Ice Cap to the westward drain into the heads of the
innermost branch fjord or in the direction of Nordpasset. The wild alpine
country to the north of the fjord is largely ice-free
valleys and riverbeds.
the ice was pressed into high ridges.
first entered by members of the Mylius-Er
outer course, in 1907. Lauge Koch who visited the mouth of the fjord in 1917 and
1921,viewed the whole of the fjord only in 1938 during an airplane expedition
Frederick E. Hyde Fjord cont.
Frederick E. Hyde Fjord cont.
Greenland
than previously supposed. He ascertained
✓ that Nordpasset, at the head of the Fjord, connected with a branch of
De Long Fjord (O.B. Bøggild Fjord,)and that northern Peary Land would
be an island except for this connecting strip of land. Finally he traced the four
branches issuing from the middle and inner fjord and the large valley at the
head of the northward trending Frigg Fjord. This valley, which he named Drivhuset
(The Hothouse) seemed to him well-protected against winds of all directions, and in
his opinion deserved close investigation by botanists and zoologists. Koch, who
in 1921, had seen musk oxen near the mouth of Frederick E. Hyde Fjord, found no
trace of them here in 1938, nor did he discover any living thing during his
whole flight over Peary Land.
Greenland
Freuchen Land,
of northern Greenland, separates Nordenskiøld Fjord from J.P. Koch Fjord
eastward.
extremity of Freuchen Land, the coast extends about 12 miles southeastward to form the
northeastern shore of Nordenskiøld Fjord and about 23 miles eastward, to from
the southern shore of the outer part of J.P. Koch Fjord. Freuchen Land
and Cape Wegener were named by Rasmussen's Second Thule Expedition.
Greenland 158 [ ]
G. B. Schley Fjord,
of Peary Land between Peary's Cairn, on Wyckoff Land, and Cape
Isaak Glueckstadt, about 8 miles northwestward. When Lauge Koch flew over
this fjord, he found it shorter than previously supposed, extending
about 23 miles west-southwestward. A short branch fjord, called Ormen,
leads from about the middle of the northern shore. Altitudes along
both sides of G.B. Schley Fjord are
the head. A number of rivers enter the inner end of the fjord, which is
surrounded by very flat country.
a record of his visit in the cairn he built near the fjord's south–
eastern entrance point. Peary did not believe that he was south of lat. 83° N.,
but J. P. Koch,
the explorer had been farther south.
Greenland
Cape Clarence Wyckoff
Greenland
Gertrude Rask Land,
the Polar Sea, projects between Benedict Fjord and an unnamed fjord to the
eastward. Cape Cannon (83° 37′N., 37° 10′W.), about 1,500 ft. high, rises
at the northwestern end of the peninsular. The rugged interior of Gertrud Rask
Land attains maximum elevations of over 2,600 ft. and is partly covered with
Highland Ice, with many of the valley glaciers meeting across the
the northern shore three large glaciers, one of them fairly active, descends direct–
ly into the sea. Lauge Koch, in 1921, found no musk oxen in this vicinity;
he concluded that migrating animals found it difficult to cross this part of
Peary Land and probably wandered along a more southerly route to reach the
North Point and the regions along the east coast.
Greenland 150
Gieseckes Icefjord,
Island and Cape Shackleton, about 8 miles north-northeastward. The
fjord, which trends eastward and then southeastward for abou t 37 miles,
is bounded on the southwestern side by a chain of islands, and on the
northeastern side by Giesecke Glacier, which also occupies its head.
The glacier is broken up by several nunataks and is said to be active mainly
in its middle portion. Due to the strong current of the fjord
the calved icebergs immediately drift away from the glacier front
with the result that, bot h summer and winter,a large icefree basin
exists at the head of the fjord. This open basin is frequented by numerous
marine animals and much visit
of the fjord are moderate , but large cliffs (granitic gneiss) are common
in the interior.
Guidebook 625 H.O. 76, 447
Greenland 95
Granville Bay,
of Wolstenholme Fjord and is entered between Manussak settlement and
Uvdlisaitunguak, a point about 8 miles northwestward. The fjord, which is
about 21 miles long and from 2 to 3 miles wide, has a north-northeastward
trend
From the head of the fjord, which forms an oval basin at the edge of
the Inland Ice, a good sledge route leads northward to Inglefield Gulf.
Manussak settlement is only sporadically occupied.
Greenland
Hagen Fjord,
the southern side of Independence Fjord, between Cape Ludovika (82° 02′N.,
23° 40′W.), and Cape Peter Henrik, about 15 miles westward. Flanked in the east by
Valdemar Glückstadt Land and in the west by J.P. Christensen Land, Hagen Fjord
extends southward for about 14 miles and then southwestward for about 23 miles
to a glacier at its head. The low hills of clay or rock, surrounding
the outer portions of the fjord , give way in the interior to precipitous cliffs,
behind which a partly ice-capped plateau-land rises to over 3,000 ft.
and surveyed by Rasmussen and Freuchen of the First Thule Expedition (1912). .
Freuchen reported a considerable number of icebergs and large floes of fresh
water ice (sikossak) off the mouth of the fjord. No game was observed by
his expedition.
Greenland
Polaris Bay,
west coast of Hall Land, between Cape Tyson (81° 19′N., 60° 55′W.), and a low point
about 17 miles to the northward.
Greenland
Hakluyt Island,
approaches of Inglefield Gulf, about 35 miles northwestward of Cape Parry, Greenland. A 2-miles
strait separates it from the larger Northumberland Island to the eastward.
Hakluyt Island, which attains an elevation
from west to east, and also from north to south. A large glacier flows down from the
island's higher part, almost dividing it in two, but the table land in the
interior has some fertile stretches, where grass and dlowers grow luxuriantly
during the summer. Large numbers of guillemots, little auks and other birds
breed in the steep eastern and western cliffs. Foxes and hares occur inland.
The island was named by Baffin, whose tiny ship found
In August, 1891, members of Peary's Kite Expedition man e uvred their whaleboat
Faith on to its di
but fox - and hare-traps were observed along the southwestern coast.
Greenland
Hall Basin,
Ellesmere Island, forms part of the Smith Sound Route which leads northward
from Baffin Bay to the Polar Sea. Hall Basin links Kennedy Channel with
Robeson Channel, and has its southern entrance between Cape Morton (81° 12′N.,
63° 40′W), Greenland, and Cape Baird, Ellesmere Island, about 23 miles
north-northwestward. Its northern entrance is between Cape Lupton (81° 40′N.,
61° 55′W.), Greenland, and Cape Murchison, Ellesmere Island, about 15 miles
west-northwestward. Petermann Fjord extends southeastward from the basin's
southeastern part, and Lady Franklin Bay leads southwestward from its northwestern
part. The basin widens to over 40 miles in its central portion.
summer, despite strong southward currents, may remain closely packed over
wide areas. Peary, in August 1905, found open water along the east side of
the basin. Rasmussen, who sledged along its east coast in May 1917, believed
that the ice traveling south through the Smith Sound Route from the Polar Sea
worked lose in August and September but that opening were local and temporary.
According to Lauge Koch , all of Hall Basin had been ice-free in 1920, for in
April 1921, he found the ice of the basin smooth, without hummocks.
of Peary, have been able to push through Hall Basin to latitude farther north.
Nares' Discovery and Greely's Proteus were stopped by ice off the entrance
to Lady Franklin Bay and were forced to winter in Discovery Harbor (Fort Conger).
The Hall Expedition (1871-72) and the Nares Expedition (1875-76) also supplied
the first charts of the basin's coasts. Theirs and Greely's observations were
later supplemented by surveys made by Peary, Rasmussen and Koch .
Guidebook 1195,1229 H.O. 76, 545 Greely, Handbook 202 Peary, Nearest
the Pole 39 Rasmussen, Greenland by the Polar Sea 73 AAF Aer. Ch 8,1943
Greenland
Hall Land,
at lat. 81° N., close to the northern entrance of Petermann Fjord, whence it extends
60 miles north-northwestward, flanked on the west and north by Hall Basin and Robeson
Channel, respectively, and on the east by Newman Bay. Its north point is Cape
Sumner (81° 55′N., 60° 50′W.). Prominent points on the west coast are
Cape Tyson (81° 19′N.), and Cape Lupton, about 25 miles to the northward.
Between the two capes the coast reced es slightly to form the 17-miles wide
Polaris Bay; the rest of the coastline is relatively even and marked only by
minor irregularities.
4,000 ft. and is almost entirely covered with Highland Ice, except for narrow
stretches near the coast. North of this ice-capped land is a low, ice-free plain,
which extends clear through the middle of the peninsula and shows signs of being
a raised marine plain. Polaris Promontory, the northernmost part of Hall
Land, which has Cape Sumner at its extremity, is again mountainous and attains
elevations of about 2,500 ft. The coast in the vicinity of the cape is very striking
and, according to Rasmussen, stands like a steep wall of cliffs, with a beautiful design in brown and
grey, the darker foreground forming a sharp contrast to the awl-pointed, snow–
covered peaks farther inland.
who undertook extensive trips along its coasts and into the interior while their
vessel, the Polaris , lay beset in Thank God Harbor, north of Polaris Bay.
(For details of this expedition see Hall and Bessels.) Rasmussen, in 1917,
and Lauge Koch, in 1921, rounded the coast of Hall Land by sledge. Both explorers
found the ice-foot narrow in most parts and often impassable because
Hall Land cont. Greenland
interior poor in game, contrary to Bessels, of the Polaris Expedition, who reported
the presence of musk-oxen,polar bears, foxes, hares, lemmings and numerous
Greenland by the Polar Sea, 75 ff. Greenland I., 73 BesselsDie amerika–
nische Nordpolexpedition, 247. AAF Aer. Ch (8) 1943
Greenland
Hare Island (Kajok)
District in northern West Greenland, close to the entrance of Vaigat Sound.
The island, which covers an area of about 66 square miles, is rather low, but
the sea cliffs are steep, often inaccessible. The rock consists of basaltic
and tufaceous layers, seamed, in some places, with coal.
lacking but vessels may find shelter under the coast.
is uninhabited except in summer, when the people from the mainland nearby
c ome here to hunt and fetch coal . It has frequently been visited by whalers
and expedition vessels, and there are some English graves at Hare Island's
northern end.
Greenland
Hartstene Bay
between Cape Kenrick and Sunrise Point, about 6 miles northwestward. The bay
which opens on Smith Sound, leads about 3 miles eastward to the entrance of Foulke
Fjord, which has no direct outlet
inside the much indented Hartstene Bay afford anchorage to small craft, but the bay, in general,
is exposed to southwesterly winds, and any ice traveling up from the southward
is certain to find its way into it. An ice-foot may from along the northern
side of the bay. The southeastern side is more sheltered, and some of the hills
along this coast are luxuriantly green in summer. Arctic hare and caribou are
numerous in the surrounding land.
the first to enter Foulke Fjord , in August 1855.
Greenland 50
Cape Hatherton (Naujat)
mass of porphyric rock, that projects about 7 miles north-north–
eastward of Cape Ohlsen, on the eastern side of Smith Sound.
The coast to the northward is studded with islands which
are breeding places of eider duck, glaucous gull and tern.
Greenland
Hazen Land,
the northern coast of Greenland (Peary Land) between De Long Fjord and
Weyprecht Inlet. Cape Hommock (83° 22′N., 40° 50′W.), a short, but sharply
narrowing projection, lies at the extreme northern end of the island.
The interior attains elevations of over 2,200 ft., with several glaciers extending
across the central portion of Hazen Land.
who reached his farthest north, 83° 24′N. (on the nei g hboring Lockwood Island)
in May 1882.
Greenland
Heilprin Land,
the western side of the inner portion of Independence Fjord. The land's northern
end is flanked by Brönlund Fjord, and its southern end by Sophie Marie
Glacier. The central and greater part of Heilprin Land is occupied by
the Chr. Erichsen Ice Cap, which rises to over 5,000 ft. The
coastal fringe consists of steep slopes of sediment formation which are very
fertile and abound with game - musk oxe and hare.
Greenland
Hendrik Island
Fjords. From Dragon Point, its low north point, at lat. 82° 18′N, long 53° W.,
the island extends nearly 40 miles southeastward, its width averaging
miles. Its greatest elevations occur in its southeastern part, where the chart
indicates a small ice cap, about 4,000 ft. high. Elesewhere the land is icefree
and slopes down to a level of about 1,000 ft. to increase again in altitude toward
the island's northern end, where two sharply contoured peaks, Mt. Dragon and Mt.
Windham Hornby, rise to 3,200 and 3,700 ft., respectively. Hares, ptarmigan and
a number of wanderin wolves have been observed in the interior.
invaluable se
Rasmussen, who camped at Dragon Point in May 1917, discovered the record cached
Mirsky, To the North 183 AAF Aer. Ch (8) 1943
Greenland
Herbert Island
Inglefield Bay, off the west coast of Greenland. Herbert Island, which is
about 18 miles long, east and west, is a vertical-sided, flat-topped
mass of variegated sandstone, with a small ice-cap; three glaciers
descend from the island's northern side, but only one of them reaches
sea level. Bastion Point (77° 24′N., 69° 51′W.), the east point of
the island, is a bold cliff of dark red sandstone, with a cap, 100 to 150 ft.
high, of lighter sandstone. It marks the northern entrance point at the eastern
end of Whale Sound. The island was investigated by Peary, in April 1892. His
party found several ruined stone igloos, two of which had been fixed up and made
habitable.
Greenland
Herluftrolle
s
Land,
Independence Fjord and G.B. Schley Fjord to the northward. To the eastward the
land faces the Mc
is ice-free
the chart here indicates two small ice-caps. Westward, southward and southeastward of
of this plateauland are wide plains which are crossed by innumerable rivers,
emptying southward into Independence Fjord or northward into the head of G.B.
Schley Fjord. The northeastern portion of Herluftrolle
low mountain ranges which follow the sweep of the coast down to Cape Eiler
Rasmussen (82° 35′N., 20° W.), which forms Peary Land's eastern extremity.
South of this point the coast recedes to form Wandel Sea.
S Herluftrolle
after rounding the northern end of Greenland . The coast south of this cape
was explored by J.P. Koch of the 1906-08 Danmark Expedition, and by Lauge Koch,
part of the coast poor in game , but was able to secure 9 musk oxen on the slopes
south of Cape Clarence Wyckoff. Species of birds along the shores
Fjord included ringplovers, gulls, Brent geese, ptarmigans, snowy owls and
snow buntings. Koch named the land, after re-surveying it by
AAF Aer. Ch 9,1943
Greenland
Holm Island (Kiatagssuak)
line between two of West Greenland's most northerly districts: Upernivik
and Thule. The island , which is about 21 miles long, east and west, and about
4 miles wide, has numerous valleys with rivers and lakes rich in salmon. Maximum
altitudes in the interior are over 3,200 ft. Wilcox Head (Ungatdlek) (74° 35′N.,
57° 11′W.), the west point of Holm Island, about 2,300 ft. high ,
view of ice conditions in the eastern part of Melville Bay.
Greenland
Humboldt Glacier,
Bay in northwest Greenland,
65° 40′W.) and Cape Forbes, about 60 miles to the northward. The glacier, which
is partly bounded by and rests upon a gneiss plain, slopes evenly into the sea,
and when viewed from the top of an iceberg directly in front of it, appears as
a great white plain, extending far into the interior. In most places the edge
does not exceed 164 ft. in elevation, and in its southern portio
easily accessible from a boat. The bergs which now and then calve off
Humboldt Glacier look like huge pieces of polar ice, but are never the height
of those off the larger glaciers farther south. Currents are strong in the waters
around the bergs in spring, and seals, in consequence are numerous offshore.
A huge icebank extends off
of 1853. Rasmussen who investigated the area in 1917, states that its
is not correct to call this a glacier, but views the ice-stream as an even edge
of the Inland Ice which here reaches down to the sea. Both Rasmussen and Lauge
observed that the ice offshore remained in motion until Christmas.
MG 65, p. 281 ff. AAF Aer.
Greenland
Hunt Fjord,
Peary Land close eastward of Cape Lane and westward of Gertrud Rask Land.
The fjord, which is about 5 miles wide and 7 miles long, trends east-south–
eastward amidst a setting which is characteristic for this part of Peary
Land : innumerable short, glacier-filled valleys flanked by dark, sharply
pointed nunataks. The peaks close to the large Thomas Glacier at the head rise
to nearly 5,000 ft. The fjord was named by Peary in 1900.
Greenland
Igdlorsuit
West Greenland, with a population of 163 Greenlanders and 2 Europeans (1937), lies
on the eastern shore of the large Ubekyendt Island. Its official buildings
include a chapel-school, a wooden warehouse, a store and a manager's residence.
There is also a
in front of the settlement has a solid ice cover from January until May, and in
summer is often filled with small, fast-moving icebergs.
Greenland
Ikerasak
West Greenland, with a popu
lies close to the southeastern extremity of the small elongated Ikerasak Island
in Karajak Icefjord. Official buildings include a church, school, manager's
house, store and warehouse. Melted calf ice forms the winter water supply; in
summer fresh water is secured from a spring near the settlement. The bay off
the settlement provides anchorage with good holding ground in its southern
and larger part; the northern part is often filled with calf ice from the
Great Karajak Glacier at the head of Karajak Icefjord.
Greenland
Independence Fjord or Bay,
(82° 05′N., 21° 40′W.), and Cape Kjoebnhavn, Sp ? on Peary Land, about 23 miles
to the northward. The giant fjord, which at one time was thought to be a strait,
extends due westward for about 90 miles to Cape Harald Moltke, and then southwest–
ward and southward for about 25 miles to the large Academy Glacier at its head. The
width of the fjord varies from 8 to 20 miles. Three arms branch off Independence
Fjord. The large Hagen Fjord leads southwestward from a point about 18 miles west of
Cape Rigsdagen. The smaller Astrup and Brönlund Fjords are entered off Cape Harald
Moltke, with Astrup Fjord leading 6 miles southward from the southern side of the
main fjord, and Brönlund Fjord extending 12 miles westward from the opposite
Brönlund Fjord terminates at the foot of Wandel Valley, which has Midsummer
Lake at its western end. A number of low islets occupy the head of the fjord.
Northwestern
Independence Fjord
Cape Harald Moltke, is formed by
SPeary Land: Herluftrolle
“ of Herluftrolle
miles westward, are clay plains, inter
hills and drained by a number of rivers. The shores of Melville Land present , on the contrary,
a range of high sandstone cliffs inter
which have elevations up to 1,500 ft., extend to a broad, fertile river delta near
the mouth of Brönlu d fjord, but they reced e somewhat from the coast near the
western end of the line. The inner portion of Independence Fjord, between
Brönlund Fjord (Cape Harald Moltke) and Academy Glacier at the head, is flanked
by Heilprin and Vildt Land, two mountainous tracts of land, separated by the
large Sophie Marie Glacier . The rocky coast of Heilprin Land, with its great slopes
Independence Fjord cont.
free fr
edge of Vildt Land, is a rocky plateau, rising precipitously to 3,800 ft.
The large Academy Glacier at the head has a number of high nunataks and several
shallow lakes. Its much crevassed floating tongue extends several miles
into the fjord. Both Academy and Sophie Marie Glacier to the northward, discharge
a number of icebergs into the fjord.
of Independence Fjord .
Cape Rigsdagen and Hagen Fjord (Cape Ludovika) ,
is formed by the low, clayey foreshore of Valdemar Glückstadt Land. West of Hagen
Fjord(Cape Peter Henrik) commences a continuous range of low sedimentary
rock, which increases in height toward Astrup Fjord. Several small glaciers
discharge into the fjord near the line's western end. The largely ice-covered
land back of this range is called J.C. Christensen Land. The inner portion
of the fjord, between Astrup and Academy Glacier at the head, is flanked
by Ubberup
with elevations of over 3,500 ft. An indentation in this coast forms a
bay which leads to the fertile Saxifraga Valley. The river which flows
through this valley
is ice-free and well watered by rivers and creeks, the moisture, in many
places, promoting a rich crop of flowering grasses and plants.
Animal life is surprisingly varied, and includes musk oxen, wolves,
foxes, hares, stoats and lemmings and a number of land- and seabirds, some of which brood
off-shore
ice in the entrance of Independence Fjord ground up and closely packed about 1 mile
of f Cape Rigsdagen. At the mouth of the fjord , as well as within it, were many icebergs
from the glaciers at its head.Some paleocrystic ice (sea ice several years old)
was found in the outer fjord; it increased in quantity near the head of the
fjord. Large leads of open water occurred far inside the fjord. The ice foot was found
to be broad and low in the outer part of the fjord, narrow in the interior, where
the coastal mountains are steep. As elsewhere in Greenland, the boundary line
between the ice foot and the sea ice is not conspicuous, the difference between
high and low water in Independence Fjord being only about 20 inches.
Fjord on their descent from the Inland Ice in 1892, and named it Independence
Bay, in honor of the date, July 4th. Peary named Academy Glacier and Navy Cliff, the
point form
northeast and to the northwest a large depression, which he believed to be part
of a giant channel
Fjord, far to the northwest, thereby severing Peary Land from the mainland of
Greenland. On the basis of dotted lines on Peary's map, the channel, under the name
of PEARY CHANNEL, was subsequently incorporated into maps of the region as a connecting
link between Independence and Nordenskiöld Fjords; Peary Land thus appeared as
an island. Great efforts were made by subsequent expeditions to Independence Fjord
to trace the so-called PEARY CHANNEL. The Mylius-Erichsen Expedition, 1906-08,
and the Alabama Expedition 1909-12, with Einar Mikkelsen in command, failed
to find it. Freuchen of the first Thule Expedition (1912) made a sketch of the
region west of Brönlund Fjord
His map indicated clearly that the great depression viewed by Peary
connection with Independence Fjord. However , the insular nature of Peary Land was not
Independence Fjord continued.
disproved until Lauge Koch, in 1921, discovered Wandel Valley. Koch's surveynevertheless indicated that Peary's observation was largely correct. The depression
does exist, although not in form of a channel, and it extends from Brönlund Fjord
to J.P. Koch Fjord on Greenland's northwest coast. Koch viewed the valley not
only from the summit of a mountain near the head of Brönlund Fjord, but also later
from a position on the
his visit to Navy Cliff. In 1938, during his airplane flight over Peary Land ,
Koch checked on these observations and found them correct.
( See also Brönlund Fjord; Wandel Valley: and Melville- and other lands, listed
under individual headings.)
over the Great Ice", pp. 345, 349 H.O. 75, p. 258 ff.
Chart: AAF Aer. Ch (9) 1944
Greenland 35
Cape Ingersoll
northwest Greenland, forms the western entrance point of Rensselaer
Bay. The cape, which extends north-northwestward, rises to over 1,000 ft.
Greenland 135
Cape Inglefield
northwest Greenland, lies about midway between Cairn Point and Cape Inger–
soll. The cape which points sharply northward, rises to less than 300 ft.
The surrounding mountains are gneiss-granite, undistinguished. ANORITOK
(Place of Little Wind), a former Eskimo settlement, lies somewhat back of
the cape. The coast here marks the beginning of the famous ice-foot, known
to many expeditions, which extends northwestward along the coast of Inglefield
Land. The ice-foot, which has a mean width of from 100 to 200 ft., forms
an ideal traveling route, except at the mouths of bays, fjord or rivers,
where it is likely to be interrupted for a longer or shorter stretch, especially
after the break-up has begun.
Greenland
Inglefield Gulf,
is entered between Beaufort Bluf (Kangek) (77° 18′N., 68° 59′W.),
and Kanak, the south point of Red Cliff Peninsula, about 13 miles north-north–
eastward. The gulf trends eastward for about 45 miles, terminating at the foot
of a huge amph
Melville Glaciers, which flow down from the Ice Cap in frozen rapids and
cascades. Fronting the face of the glaciers lies a small archipelago
of ice-free islands.
glittering glacier face " , rimmed in the foreground by a series of precipitous,
isolated mountains, often of rather startling contour. At a number of places
the ro
short glaciers, flowing from the aurrounding "Great Ice", reach the water level
and discharge a limited number of icebergs. Two larger indentations within the gulf
are Bowdoin Bay and Academy Bay. The former leads from the northern side of
outer Inglefield Gulf and terminates at the foot of Bowdoin Glacier. The latter
extends from a point south of the head of the gulf and leads to Academy Glacier.
Bow
have some fertile slopes which provide pasturage for caribou. In summer
the waters of the bays abound in seals, white whales and narwhal, and provide
good hunting for the Eskimos living along the shores of Inglefield Gulf. Open
leads inside the gulf are said to exist throughout the winter, but unbroken ice
may blocks its approaches as far as end of July. The freeze-up comes in November.
Peary, who had headquarters on Red Cliff Peninsula in 1 8 91-92, and 1893-1895.
Peary named a number of points along the shores of Inglefield Gulf. Rasmussen
Inglefield Gulf cont.
and Lauge Koch investigated the gulf between 1917 and 1923. Koch, who enteredit in the small schooner, Louise , on 11 September 1920, experienced a great
deal of ice here. In 1935, the Morissey , with Captain Robert A. Bartlett in command,
spent the period of July 25-29 at the head of Inglefield Gulf. At this time the
fast ice had broken up, except for some scattered pieces and bergs at the head,
a most unusual condition for this time of the year.
MG Vol. 65, 230, 252. MG Vol 70, 25 AAF Aer. Ch (20) 1943
Greenland
Inglefield Land,
the eastern sides of Smith Sound and Kane Basin, between Etah Settlement
(78° 19′N., 72° 42′W.) and Cape Agassiz, about 105 miles to the north–
eastward. Eastward Inglefield Land extends from 10 to 32 miles to the
edge of the Inland Ice.
500 to 1,000 ft. high. Clinging to the face of the cliff and following
the sweep of the coast except at bays and river-mouths, is a platform of ice,
sometimes 200 to 300 ft. wide. This famous ice-foot, which is particularly
pronounced along the eastern side of Kane basin, provides a secure and level
sledge route at almost all seasons. The interior of Inglefield Land forms
a plain sloping to 1,000 to 2,000 ft. as it approaches the western edge of the
Ice Cap. The surface is everywhere level except in the east where small
elevations alternate with valleys.
Lakes in the northeast, into which flows the Hiawatha Glacier, and elsewhere
by a number of rivers
many bays of the coast. The climate of Inglefield Land is milder than elsewhere
in these latitudes and the vegetation is rich enough to support game, although
caribou, formerly abundant, have become almost extinct. Hares are numerous and
bears are hunted in the northern portion of the land. Many salmon are caught
in the rivers and lakes, and spring and summer brings seals, whales and occasional–
ly walrus to the coast. There are a number of old winter houses on Inglefield
Land . Recent archaeological expeditions have shown them to contain many obj ects
of European type, some reminiscent of Norse finds farther south. The dwellings,
therefore , may date back to the middleages, leaving open the question whether
their builders were Eskimos, influenced by European culture, or Europeans, wh
part, had adopted the Eskimo way of life.
Inglefield Land cont.
was first explored by members of the Kane Expedition in 1853-55. It has since been
investigated by a number of parties, including Rasmussen's Second Thule
Expedition (1917), Lauge Koch's Danish Bicentenary Jubilee Expedition (1920-23),
the Danish Archaeological and Ethnographical Expedition (1935-37, under E. Holtved,
and the 1937-38 British Expedition,led by David Haig-Thomas. The latter
expedition corrected Koch's position of the edge of the Ice Cap on Inglefield
Land, placing it about 12 miles farther eastward.
AAF Aer. Ch (20) 1943
Greenland
Ingnerit Peninsula,
covering an area of over 400 sq. miles, extends due southwestward, flanked on the
south by Umiarfik Fjord and on the north by Søndre Sound. A st r ip of land, only
8 miles wide, part of which is occupied by a lake-filled valley, connects
the peninsula with the mainland. On the west coast, about 6 miles from the
northwestern extremity, is a small fjord, Ingnerit, where the coal-bearing beds
reach the coast. The coal, not plentiful and of inferior quality, is used by the
local population. Inside Ingnerit Fjord, close to its southern entrance point,
is a dog quarantine station. This station has been established in accordance
with the strict law of Greenland which forbids the importation or transfer
of dogs from one district to another, in order to prevent the spread of hydro–
phobia and other contagious diseases. The mountains in the interior of Ingnerit
Peninsula attain elevations of over 3,000 ft. and are widely covered with snow
which does not melt.
Greenland
Inugsulik Bay (Ryders Bay) ,
Nugssuak Peninsula and the large Holms Island, more than 23 miles to
the northward. Two glaciers discharge into the head of the bay, but as the
Greenland Ice Cap levels off in this vicinity, the icebergs which are produced
are not very high. Igdluligssuak, the largest of several islands in the
northern part of the bay, is used as a wintering place by the Greenlanders
who make hunting trips of considerable length from here. Inugsulik Island,
2 miles westward of Igdluligssuak, is slightly smaller, but exceptionally
fertile; on its southern side is a house,named "Bjoerneborg", with provisions
for travelers southbound from the Thule District; the high plateau in the
interior has a cairn, erected by Captain C. Ryder, who mapped the district
in 1886-87, claiming it for the Danish Crown.
Greenland
J.P. Koch Fjord,
the northwestern extremity of Freuchen Land, and Elison Islamd, about 7 miles
to the northwestward. The fjord, which extends eastward and then largely
south-eastward, terminates at the foot of Astrup Glacier. Due west of the
fjord's head is a narrow strip of ice-free land, which forms the only
connecting link between Peary Land and the main body of Greenland to the
southward. (For a discussion of Peary Channel, which was shown on the old
charts as severing Peary Land from the mainland see INDEPENDECNCE FJORD).
by Nansen Land and part of its off-lying archipelago, all of which are ice-free ,
c onsisting of wild alpine country. On the southern side of the fjord and on both
sides of the inner part the land is covered with glaciers, except for a small
icefree margin along the shores. Rasmussen, who visited the fjord in June 1917,
found open water in the outer part of the fjord, and a few seals were secured with
difficult y. .
Expedition and its outer portion revisited by Lauge Koch in 1921. In 1938,
during an airplane flight to Peary Land, Koch checked up on his previous
observations, and found the fjord to extend much farther inland than had been previously
supposed.
Greenland
J.P. Koch Land
in lat. 72° in northern West Greenland. Its outer shores are formed by
the inner part of Lakse Fjord and by a series of sounds, sometimes called
Northern Sound, which extend northward to the head of Upermivik Icefjord.
To the eastward the land is bounded by the Inland Ice. The region has
several fertile valleys and a few marginal lakes. Altitudes are moderate ,
except in the north where Pingut, West Greenland's most northerly basalt
mountain, rises to over 2,500 ft. It was in this vicinity that members
of the J.P. Koch and Alfred Wegener Expedition (1912-13) descended to the
coast after having crossed the Inland Ice.
Greenland 72
Cape Jackson
at the junction of the eastern shores of Kane Basin (Peabody Bay) and
Kennedy Channel. The low limestone hil [ ] s of the coast slope up in the northeast
to a small ice cap , but lose in height to the eastward along the northern
shore of Peabody Bay. Rasmussen, in April, 1917, found the
along this stretch of the coast easy to travel on.
Greenland
John Brown Coast
along the eastern wide of Kennedy Channel, between Cape Constitution
(80° 34′N., 66° 45′W), and Cape Bryan, about 46 miles north-northwestward.
The ice-free southern part of the coast is marked by many minor irregularities –
small bays and a short fjord - into which empty a number of streams. The
mountains here are steep, but the foreshore is broad enough to permit the
formation of smooth ice-foot, easy to travel on. Signs of ancient
habitations have been found along this coast. The northern part of John
Brown Coast is largely occupied by John Brown Ice Cap [ ] except for a narrow
strip of ice-free land along the shore. The ice-foot along this part of the
coast is very narrow and encumbered with huge ice-blocks.
Greenland
Kaersorsuak,
West Greenland, covers an area of about 66 sq. miles. Its highest peak, a cone-shaped
mountain, over 3,500 ft. high, is one of the noblest landmarks along this coast
and visible at a distance of over 60 miles. Sanderson's Hope, the west point
of the island, so named by Davis on his voyage in 1587, has steep and partly overhang–
ing cliffs, rising abruptly to over 1,000 ft., where guillemots and auks congregate
by the myriads. Kaersok, a native dwelling-place on the south coast of the island,
is inhabited only in winter, when the population numbers about 40 persons.
There is anchorage off Kaersok.
Greenland
Kaffeklubben (Coffee Club)
of Greenland (Peary Land), about midway between Bliss Bay and Cape James
Hill. The island was named by Lauge Koch in 1922.
Greenland
Kagsserssuak
of northern West Greenland, forms the west point of Kagsserssuak
Peninsula, an ice-free projection which juts about 12 miles westward into the
Baffin Sea. The population,in 1921, was 27 Greenlanders. The official
buildings, consisting of a chapel, a manager's house and a store, were then
in a dilapidated condition. Thee is no harbor at the settlement, and during
storms from the southeast and southwest it is necessary for vessels to
anchor north of the peninsula, in shelte of the coast. The freeze-up
comes end of September and the break-up some time in July.
Greenland
Kamarujuk (Quamarujuk),
northern side of Ignerit, one of the largest branches of Umanak Fjord
in Nordost Bay. The position at the head of Kamarujuk is lat. 71° 09′N.,long.
51° 14′W., and it was here that the German Greenland Expedition of 1930-31 ,
commanded by Alfred Wegener, had one of its meteorological stations .
The post carried on meteorological observations in conju n ction with a station
at Umanak Colony and a station, named Scheide
Inland Ice, several miles northeast of the head of Kamarujuk Fjord.
The inner fjord has an abandoned marble quarry at Marmorilik.
Greenland
Kane Basin,
Canada (Ellesmere Island) forms part of the Smith Sound Route, which leads
from Baffin Bay to the Polar Sea. The basin is entered north of Smith Sound,
between Cairn Point (78° 31′N., 72° 25′W.), on the Greenland side, and
Cape Sabine, Ellesmere Island, about 29 miles northwestward. Its approximate
northern limit is defined by a line running from Cape Jackson (80° 00′N.,
67° 25 ′W.), Greenland, to Cape Lawrence, Ellesmere Island, about 29 miles northwest–
ward, north of which extends Kennedy Channel.
100 miles between Cape Agassiz, Greenland, and Cape Louis Napoleon, on the
Canadian shore. Its western side is much indented, in contrast to its eastern
side, which has a more or less regular coast line. The eastern side differs also
by being bordered by a large area of relatively fertile, ice-free land, named
Inglefield Land, which forms the basin's southeastern shore up to Cape Agassiz.
North of this cape the basin is largely bounded by the 60-mile wide Humboldt
Glacier. The coast here recedes slightly to form the large Peabody Bay, the north–
eastern portion of Kane Basin, which extends from Cape Agassiz to Cape Jackson,
over 60 miles northwestward. Soundings taken by
Kane Basin, have established depths ranging from 101 to 139 fathoms, which
are less than those in the neighboring waterways. The flood tidal current
from the south meets the tidal current from the north in the vicinity of
Cape Frazer on the Ellesmere Island side.
large masses of heavy polar pack ice, that drift in from the Arctic Ocean through
the narrow channels northward of the basin. During the wintermonths the basin freezes
from shore to shore, the winter ice cementing the pack together, except for
Kane Basin cont.
short break-ups that occur under the influence of wind and current. Large leads arelikely to occur in August, but even then the pack may extend almost unbroken
across the basin's southern end.
into Kane Basin was Elisha K. Kane, in August 1853. His tiny brig, the Advance .
pushed northward to lat. 78° 43′N., and then found her final moornings in Rensse–
laer Harbor (78° 37′N.),whence the expedition explored the shores of Kane
Basin by sledge. Humboldt Glacier was investigated by Mc Garry and Bonsalls and
later by a party, led by Kane. Morton traveled north to Cape Constitution
well inside Kennedy Channel. Hayes went westward to Elessmere Island and surveyed
points in the vicinity of Cape Frazer. Hayes, in 1860, re-visited Humboldt
Glacier and the Elesmere Island coast by sledge, without, however, producing much
information. The farthest north of the Advance was not surpassed until 1871, when
the Polaris , under Hall, steamed through all of Kane Basin on August 28. Meeting
with relatively few obstacles the vessel continued northward through Kennedy Channel
and Hall Basin and, on August 30, almost reached the open Polar Sea. Nares,
in August 1875, managed to push both the Alert and the Discovery through Kane
Basin, but his journey, contrary to that of Hall's, was a constant struggle
with ice. Greely's
passing through Kane Basin, but later was stopped by ice off Cape Lieber in Hall
Basin. Peary's Windward , in the summer of 1898, managed Kane Basin only as
far as Cape d'Urville, but Peary's Roosevelt , in 1905-06 and in 1908-09, twice forced
passage not only through Kane Basin but through all of the Smith Sound Route.
The Roosevelt , like the Alert , ultimately found moorings off Cape Sheridan on the
Polar Sea.
[ took ] the [ Effie ] Morrison like Kane Became [ ] 780 450 in 1937 and again in 1940,
Woodie’s in [ ] Exp. 1937 mapped area on the [ beluciu ] [ ] southwestern side
H.O. 76, 524 Guidebook 1190 ff. Greely, Handbook Peary, Nearest the Pole .
Bessels, Smith Sound and its explorations. Mirsky, To the North AAF Aer. Ch. 8
1943
Greenland
Kangek Peninsula (Kangeks Halvø),
extends westward from the mainland, forming the southern side of the 30-mile long Laxe
Fjord. The peninsula terminates at its western end in a large, bold promontory,
with steep dark bluffs facing the sea. The promontory is marked by a number
of peaks, the highest of which rises to over 2,400 ft.
Greenland
Kangerdluk ,
entered between the large mainland projection Akuliarusek and the island
Kekertarsuak to the northwest. The fjord extends about 17 miles northeastward
to the 3-mile-wide face of Rink Glacier,one of the most productive glaciers
in the vicinity, which calves every ten to twenty days accompanied by teemors
and ear-splitting noise. After the calving Kangerdluk is completely filled with
ice, which only a prolonged easterly wind will clear away. Umiamako Glacier,
another active glacier, about 2 miles wide, discharges into Karrat Fjord close
northward to the entrance of Kangerdluk. The combined output of Rink and Umiamako
Karrat
Inland Ice; maximum elevation on the nortern shore is 7,474 ft. Vegetation inside
the fjord is almost extinct except for a few small areas where a flora of
Arctic steppe has developed, but seals come up to the foot of the glacier and
sea -gulls circle inmidst the turmoil of Rink Glacier's giant calvings.
Rink Glacier soundings up to 385 fathoms have been obtained.
Greenland
Karajak Ice Fjord (see Umanak Fjord)
Greenland
Karrat (Karrats) Fjord,
the northern part of Nordost Bay, and is entered between the western
extremity of Ubekyendt Island and the southern extremity of Svartenhuk
peninsula, nearly 23 miles northwestward. The fjord extends northwestward for over
29 miles to the large island Kekertarsuak where it branches, sending arms
eastward, northeastward, and northward. Mighty glaciers discharge their
icebergs into Karrat Fjord, making navigation of the fjord dangerous at
any season. The mainland shore to the northward has
over 7,000 ft. The depths within Karrats Fjord are generally great. The
break-up begins in June and the freeze-up in October.
Greenland
Kekertarsuak
long, southwest and northeast, and 7 miles at its broadest, lies in the
Upernivik District of northern West Greenland, close off the northern
shore of Ignerit Peninsula. The island is composed of basalt, except
for its cliffy northern end , which is gneiss. The outpost South Upernivik
is on a small, southward projecting peninsula that forms the southern
extremity of Kekertarsuak Island.
Greenland
Kekertarsuak (Qeqertarssuaq) ,
Greenland, is about 14 miles long, east and west and has a width of about
9 miles at its western end, tapering to a narrow
extremity. In its interior, the island rises to nearly6,000 ft. Tunua,
a channel about 2 miles wide, separates Kekertarsuak from a mainland
projection to the northward. Nugatsiak, the principal settlement in
Karrat
Naujat, a native dwelling-place lies on its western shore, about 6 miles
northwestward of Nugatsiak . The Universal Greenland Expredition spent most of
the summer 1932 at Nugatsiak . The region around the settlement is notorious for
its frequent fogs and strong winds.
Greenland
Kennedy Channel,
Island), forms part of the Smith Sound Route, which leads from Baffin Bay to the
Polar Sea. Its southern entrance lies north of Kane Basin between Cape Jackson
(80° 00′N. 67° 25′W.), Greenland, and Cape Lawrence, Ellesmere Island, about
35 miles northwestward. Its northern entrance is between Cape Morton (81° 12′N.
63° 40 ′W.) Greenland, and Cape Baird , . Ellesmere Island, about 25 miles north–
northwestward, beyond which extends Hall Basin. Crozier, Franklin and Hans
Islands occupy its southern fairway. The channel narrows down to about 17
miles in its interior portions and is lined on both side by a series of lofty
cliffs, rising to 1,000 ft. or more. The shorelines are relatively even, the
only major indentation being the fjord-like Bessels Bay, on the Greenland
side, south of Cape Morton. Floes of old ice continuously drift southward
through the channel from spring until December, forming high hummocks where their
edges meet. The freeze-up comes late and the break-up early owing to the channel's
high tides, some of which are said to rise to 30 ft.
reached Cape Constitution (80° 58′N . ) , on the Greenland side, in June 1854, after
sledging northward from Rensselaer Harbor, where his expedition was based. Only
5 vessels have been able to
Nares's Alert and Discovery (1875), Greely's Proteus (1881) and Peary's Roosevelt
reached her farthest [ ] , 80° 22′N. in Kennedy Channel in 1940,
(1905 and 1908).
Greenland
Kingigtuarsuk (Kingigtorssuaq)
West Greenland, about 16 miles northwestward of Upernivik Colony. A small
slate stone with a runic inscription was found here in 1824. The inscription
reads in translation: " Erling Sigvatsson and Bjarne Thordsson and Enridi Oddsson on
the Saturday before Gangdag (25 April) made this (these) cairns." Scholars have
placed the date of the monument at around 1330 and contributed it to early
Norsemen, who wintered here.
Greenland
Kraulshavn (74° 09′N. 56° 05 ′W.),
is situated at the head of a bay that indents the northern side of Nugsuak
Peninsula, near
in 1921, is considered a pioneer district in the sense, that it is newly
occupied by Eskimos, who have migrated here because of the scarcity of game
and fish farther southward. The population in 1930 was 220 Greenlanders;,
however, because of their nomadic nature , the number of inhabitants varies greatly.
The harbor which is said to be good, is accessible from the open sea from
July to November. Sledging becomes possible in December. Seals, polar bears, whales,
and foxes are numerous in the vicinity.
Greenland
Kutdlikorssuit (Kugdlerkorsuit),
about 15 miles long, southeast and northwest, and up to 8 miles wide,
forms the southern shore of Sugar Loaf Bay. On the south Kutdlikorssuit
faces the outer part of Gieseckes Isfjord. The land attains only moderate
altitudes. The much indented southern coast has a large bay which is sometimes
blocked by icebergs. Agpalisiorfik, a native dwelling place, stands close to
the western entrance point of this bay.
Greenland
Lafayette Bay,
side of Kennedy Channel, is entered between Cape Jefferson and Cape Independence, about
9 miles north-northeastward. The coast here recedes but slightly and is formed
by steep mountains, 1,300 ft. high, in front of which lies a low foreshore
about 30 to 60 ft. wide. Crozier Island, the southernmost of the small
islands in Kennedy Channel, lies close outside the middle of the entrance
to Lafayette Bay.
Greenland
Laxe (Lakse or Salmon) Fjord
Kange k
2 miles to the north. The fjord trends eastward for about 29 miles. A fan–
shaped system of valleys at the head of the fjord is occupied by lakes
and short rivers which have their source near the Inland Ice.Altitudes here
come close to the 3,000 ft. mark. The northern side of the inner fjord is
comparatively fertile and near the head , at Orpik , a small dwelling-place ,
is a grove of willows, about 6 ft. tall. So far as is known this is the northernmost
willow grove in West [ ] reenland. Ekaluarsuit, a salmon river debouches on the southern side
of the fjord, about 3 miles from the head. The river drains a large lake
close to the Inland [ ] ce; its shores serve as favorite tenting ground for the
people who come here to fish salmon and hunt caribou.
Greenland
Life Boat Cove
entrance close northward of Cape Ohlsen. In October 1872, the Polaris
was run ashore here in a wrecked condition and subsequently abandoned.
The crew built a house (Polaris House) on land, and spent the winter
without suffering undue hardship, due mainly to the friendly assistants
of Eskimos who come over from Etah to visit. In 1923 the Bowdoin
grounded here with the falling tide. Within the cove the bottom suddenly
changes from black to a yellow sand, studded with boulders.
Greenland
Lincoln Sea
end of Greenland and the northeastern end of Ellesmere Island, or roughly,
between lat. 82° 10′N. and 83° 40 N., and between long. 34° W. and 64° W. Robeson
Channel leads south w estward from the Lincoln Sea, and , together with other channels
and basins of the Smith Sound Route, connects the sea with Baffin Bay.
The Greenland shore of the Lincoln Sea, which includes the shores of Nyeboe
and Peary Lands, between Cape Stanton and Cape Morris Jesup, is deeply gutted
by numerous fjords which are usually filled with heavy polar pack ice. The shores
are cliffy and steep, with the land behind often attaining altitudes of over
3,000 ft. A corona of large and small islands off Peary Land adds to the broken -
up character of this coast.
nort heastern extremity of Grant Land, reaches from Cape Sheridan to Cape Joseph
Henry. The charted outline of this coast presents a somewhat less jagged appearance
than that of the Greenland shore, although a number of larger projections and
numerous small capes jut out into the sea. Some of the peaks farther inland
attain elevations of about 5,000 ft. Cape Joseph Henry is marked by a stupendous
ice-foot thrown up by the heavy ice floes of the Arctic Ocean that crash
and grind continuously against this cape.
summer and winter. Basins of open water and more or less considerable openings
in the ice pack may form here and there, but they are always
temporary. In summer, however, the ice pack, forced into the Lincoln Sea
from the great Arctic Ocean, starts
- a movement partly caused by openings forming along the shores, partly by channels
ward through the relatively narrow channels of the Smith Sound Rout e into
Lincoln Sea cont.
Baffin Bay. Navigation inmidst these masses of greatimpossible. A vessel can at best drift with the ice in the direction, in which
the current is going.
has eve r navigated, was first explored by the Nares Expedition in 1876, when a
party led by Beaumont reached the vicinity of Sherard Osborne Fjord. Further
explorations of this coast were carried out by Lockwood, of the Greely Expedition,
in 1882, by Peary,in 1900, by Rasmussen's First and Second Thule Expedition,
in 1912 and 1917, and finally by Lauge Koch,in 1921. Koch, in 1938,
work by an air
Greenland. The Ellesmere Island shore was charted by Lt. Pelham Aldrich of the
Nares Expedition, and the same stretch was traversed by Peary and members of his
expeditions of 1905-06, and 1908-09. Both Nares' ship, the Alert , and Peary's
vessel, the Roosevelt, were in winter quarters at Cape Sheridan.
and Canadian Airforces have contributed substantially to a detailed charting
of both coasts of the Lincoln Sea.
Greenland
Littleton Island
1 mile, lies on the eastern side of Smith Sound, close northwestward of Cape Ohlsen,
Greenland. " The desolate, barren-looking piece of rock," as Peary termed it,
rises precipitously to a flat top, its cliffs alive with myriads of little auks
and other birds. Inglefield discovered the island in 1852, since which time
it has been made the depository of records of movements of various northbound
expeditions. Peary, in the Falcon , effected a landing here in August, 1893. Mac
Millan, landing on the island in August 1923,found thecairn erected by Kane in 1853
and remains of a coal cache left by Greely in 1881.
Greenland
Cape Lupton
point at the southern end of Robeson Channel . The cape is a conspicuous
landmark. Here the character of the coast changes, the low forshore farther
southward being replaced by the steep cliffs of Polaris Promontory, which in
the vicinity of the cape rise to about 1,300 ft.
Col. Ja m es Lupton of Cincinnati, Ohio, one of his early benefactors. Rasmussen,
whoe rounded the cape by sledge in May,1917, found the shoreline from Cape
Lupton to the northward almost impossible to follow, due to pressure ridges,
towering to a height of from 30 to 50 ft.
286. Rasmussen, Greenland by the Polar Sea, 80
Greenland
Marshall Bay,
is entered between Inuarfigssuak (78° 52′N., 71° 05′W.), the site of an
old Eskimo settlement, and Cape Russell, about 4 miles northward. The bay, which narrows
sharply in its inner portion, extends about 6 miles southeastward to the mouth of
a river, darining the September Lakes to the eastward. A group of small, steep
islands in the northeastern portion of the wide, outer part of Marshall Bay,
has some house-ruins, which were discovered by Rasmussen in 1917. Erik Holtved,
who re-investigated thes ruins in 1937, discovered Norse relics here. Ruins of about
30 houses at Inuar f igssuak, at the entrance of Marshall Bay also yielded Norse relics.
ice. Koch found the bay firmly frozen over in September,1922. Holteved reported
the sea-ice and the ice-foot north and south of the entrance so thawed toward
the end of June, 1937, that sledge travel had to be discontinued.
Marshall Bay is a quiet bay, meteorologically. During the entire summer,1937,
Holtved experienced only one storm here, while several were observed in the
distance.
Greenland
Mc Cormick Bay,
the west point of Red Cliff Peninsula, and Iglunaksuak Point, the extremity
of an unnamed promontory, about 9 miles to the northwestward. The bay, which opens
on Murchison Sound at the northeastern end of Baffin Bay, trends about 20
miles northeastward, narrowing to a
The barren northern shore, which has a moderate slope, is inter [ ] ected by
numerous ravines and is capped with ice. The more [ ] fertile southern
shore is marked by a series of moderately high, reddish-brown cliffs which
farther inland, are interspersed with hanging glaciers, tongues of the central
ice cap of the Red Cliff Peninsula. Tuktu valley, a wide depression walled
in by bluffs and glacier faces, leads eastward from the head of the bay nearly
to the head of Bowdoin Bay, which extends northward from Inglefield Gulf. Sun
Glacier, which flows into the narrow head from the northeastward, does not
produce bergs every year.
Red Cliff House, Peary's 1891-92 base,stood on a knoll about 2-1/2 miles east of
Cape Cleveland. The sloping foreshore here was covered with mosses and flowers
showing [ ] numerous traces of caribou, foxes and hares. Seals and walrus abounded
off shore.
Greenland
Mc Cormick Bight (Pandora Harbor),
Kordlortorssuak Point and Cape Kenrick, a prominent headland, about 2 miles to the
north-northeastward, The bay is only about 2 miles long and narrows sharply near
its head. The inner part, where anchorage may be obtained in depths from
5 to 7 fathoms, is called Pandora Harbor, so named by Sir Allen Young, who examined
the bight in 1876. Crystal Palace Cliffs, which form the shore in the
vicinity of Kordlortorssuak Point, are remarkable, table-topped cliffs, consisting
of rock terraces, which rise evenly, one above the other like balconies.
Greenland
Cape Melville (Navdlortok)
south point of an L-shaped promontory, which juts southward into Melville
Bay in a position about 47 miles east of Cape York. The east-west arm of the
promontory, which is about 7 miles long, is linked to the mainland on the north
by a low isthmus which is awash at high tide. The north-south arm, which projects
less than 5 miles into the sea, has a few huts, some of which are used by
bear hunters. Off -shore, about 28 miles south of Cape Melville, extends
an ice bank on which the largest icebergs ground.
Greenland
Melville Bay
coast of Greenland, between Holm Island (74° 30′N., 57° 11′W.), and
Cape York (75° 54′N., 66° 28′W.), nearly 200 miles northwestward. The
shore of this large bay curves north-northwestward for about 138 miles to
Thalbitzer Point and thence trends westward for about 92 miles to Cape York.
Only a few islands, all of them small, front the mainland shore, and only
the outermost rocks and islets are icefree, while the entire coast is almost
completely covered with enormous glaciers. There is, nevertheless, a distinct
difference between the southeastern and northwestern shore of the bay. In the
southeastern part, between Holm Island and Thalbitzer Point, the Inland Ice
stands out as an unbroken horizontal line. Along this stretch there are few
sharp indentations of the coast line, and the occasional mountains that rise
above the glaciers, are bare of snow and sharply outlined against the ice.
The northwestern part, between Thalbitzer Point and Cape York, is indented by
numerous bays, and the country looks as if a thin carpet of ice had been
spread over the rugged mountains. For long stretches in the bays near Cape York
the ice covers even the outermost rocks, across which it reac h es to the sea.
to 1,600 ft. extending far inland. A few steep bluffs close to the coast
rise to about 2,000 ft., while some of the small, exposed land sections farther
inland are said to attain considerably higher elevations. Of the many glaciers
that reach the sea along the shores of Melville Bay, the most productive
are Steenstrup, Nansen, and King Oscar Glaciers, all of them in the northern
part of the southeastern section. More than half of the total glacier front
of the bay, however, is assumed to be stationary and unproductive.
Melville Bay cont.
Eskimos who come here to hunt polar bears. Tugtuligssuak, a mainland promontory,about midway bwteen Holm Island and Thalbitzer Point, has numerous ruins of stone
houses and was undoubtedly at one time one of the chief settlements in Melville Bay.
It was re-discovered as a hunting region in 1905 and has been inhabited since.
Only a few of the many islands inside the bay are permanently settled.
entrance to Melville Bay, and within the bay the charted depths are generally great
outside the off-lying islands. No soundings are show n between the islands and the
shore. Many of the icebergs , discharged from the glaciers around Melville Bay ,
ground in its shallower parts; these bergs and the islands break the winds and waves,
and so allow for the formation of heavy sheets of ice between them during the winter
months, while in summer they act as anchor for this sheet or floe ice. Furthermore ,
the current setting northward along the west coast of Greenland carries a great deal
of
of ice there, so that it is always late in the season before the bay is even
partly clear of ice. It is understood that steam vessels can cross Melville Bay
after the middle of August in any year. Their crossing records are likely to vary
however. In the summer of 1934, an abnormally late ice year, the Heimen , after
waiting at the southern end of Melville Bay from July 3 to August 3 for an
opportunity to cross the bay, gave up the attempt. Later that season, three
ships reached Thule settlement to the northward without hindrance, for favorable
winds began to clear the bay in the second week of August. In 1935 the Morissey
found unusually favorable ice conditions for the time of the year. The crossing
of Melville Bay was effected on July 23, at which time the fast ice was more or less
broken up by the swell. Thule was reached on July 24th. On August 5, 1937, the
Isbjørn made the crossing of Melville Bay in about 20 hours, in a northerly wind with
heavy rain; no pack ice was seen.
Melville Bay cont.
not only by the early whalers but by the many expeditions seeking the Northwest
Passage and the Pole. Information concerning
incomplete up to a rather recent date. The original charting of the bay was done
from a sketch survey by Sir John Ross (1818), who named the bay after Melville,
then First Lord of the British Admiralty. Hayes and Bradford, who entered the
bay in the Panther , in 1869, contributed some knowledge of its glaciers. Finally,
Astrup, a member of Peary's Falcon Expedition, made the first real in v estigation
of the coast , in 1894. Astrup sledged westward from Cape York to Thom Island
and then northward to the Inland Ice, mapping and sketching as he went along.
That same year, T.C. Chamberlin, of the Peary Auxiliary Expedition, crossed
Melville Bay by ship, contributing a good description of its broader features.
In April, 1903 Mylius-Erichsen, Moltke and Knud Rasmussen journeyed by sledge
across Mel
and new details were filled in, especially in the southern part of the bay.
Rasmussen revisited the Melville Bay region in the summer of 1916, intent on
ethnological studies, and from June 4 to June 17 assisted Lauge Koch in mapping
the bay from Wilcox Head (Holm Island) to Cape York. Rasmussen, by that time,
had crossed the bay about 40 times, and the map resulting from his and Koch's
efforts was a great advance over anything heretofore published. Koch revisited
the bay at various times between October, 1916 and May, 1923, his sur
the basis fo charts published by the Geodetic Institute of Denmark, 1923 and 1937 ,
(See also BAFFIN BAY).
Greenland 250 w
Cape Morris Jesup
north point of Greenland and the northernmost known land in the world.
The pack ice presses close to the narrow foreshore so that the shore-line is
difficult to ascertain except in late summer. A river discharges
near the cape through a small delta; a
delta formed by a river which rises in the Marie Peary [ P ] eaks to the south–
ward. The mountains back of the cape quickly gain in heights and attain
elevations of about 4,000 ft. but peaks as well as valleys are usually
icefree, the chart indicating only a few small glaciers farther inland.
sea ice a few miles off-shore whence he struck out twicein the direction
of the pole. He reached lat. 83° 50′N., but extremely rough ice intersected
by water cracks prevented his advancing farther northward. A few days later,
traveling eastward along the coast, Peary saw open water everywhere
a few miles offshore. In one of Peary's records, left in a cairn
by him at the cape, mention is made of 10 musk oxen being killed eastward
of Cape Morris Jesup.
in summer the greater part of the ice along the coast east of the cape would
disappear, leaving a wide area of open water between the shore and the
pack ice belt. Koch's party found no musk-oxen at all in this vicinity, but
h
Greenland
Mascart Inlet
.
,
B enet (83° 03′N., 45° 50′W.) and Cape Payer, about 6 miles northeastward, whence
it extends s outheastward between the eastern coast of Sverdrup Island and the
western coast of Nansen Land. About 10 miles within the entrance the inlet narrows
to about 2 miles and then widens and divides, the main branch indenting the
west coast of
leads southward into J.P. Koch Fjord . A channel, about 23 miles long , connecting
J.P. Koch Fjord with the Arctic Ocean, is thus formed by the outer part of Mascart
Inlet and the narrow passage.
Lady Franklin Bay, in 1882.
Greenland
Melville Land,
lies on the northern side of the middle portion of Independence Fjord. The mount–
ainous tract of land extends far northward
and is distinctly icefree, even in its interior where a flat. plateau attains
elevations of over 3,000 ft. Its 50-mile coastal stretch on Independence
Fjord is sedimentary rock, forming precipitous, bronze-colored cliffs, broken
here and there by fertile ravines and river beds. Towards the west the bluffs rec
to give way to a wider belt of flat foreshore, thence to a large river delta, clos
close westward of Cape Harald Moltke, the southwestern extremity of Melville
Land.
in command, were the first to make extensive observations along the shores of
M elville Land. Rasmussen contrasted the coast with the barren land farther
southward through which his expedition had just been passing. "It was a real
delight to see not clay, nor rocks, nor gravel, but earth; mould, dotted every–
where w
oxen, hares and ptarmigan. Birdlife was plentiful, and many seals lay out
on the ice, basking in the sun. Lauge Koch, who visited the coast in 1921,
also comme nt ed on its fertility and life. During his reconnaisance Flight
over Peary Land, 1938, Koch was able to check on his previous observation
that [ ] elville Land is distinctly ice free.
Chart: AAF Aer. Ch (9) 1944
Greenland
Melville Monument,
Bay, about 20 miles northward of Cape Seddon, Greenland. The Monument has
been described as a small, peaked island, recalling the larger Devil's Thumb
farther southward. Its height has been given as around 200 ft.
Greenland
Meteorite Island (Savigsivik),
off the west coast of Greenland, about 23 miles east-northeastward of
Cape York. In 1893 Peary discovered large meteorites here and on the
neighboring coast. Three of these huge blocks - the largestcoming from
Meteorite Island - were later removed to the Museum of Natural History,
in New York.
there is a subsidiary trading post and Eskimo settlement which is visited
annually by Danish trading ships. (See also Prince Regents Bay, Meteorites.)
Greenland
Cape Morris Jesup
of Greenland and the northernmost land in the world. A river discharges near the
cape through a small delta; about 3 miles southeastward is another delta f or med
by a river which rises in the Mary Peary Peaks to the southward , where [ ] levations
are close to 4,000 ft. In one of the records left by Peary, who discovered
the cape on May 13, 1900 , and revisited it on the 17th and 26th of that month,
mention is made of 10 musk oxen being killed eastward of Cape Morris Jesup.
In mid-May, 1921, Lauge Koch's party found no musk oxen at all in this vicinity
and saw only one track, several months old. There were numerous hares and a few
wolves.
treacherous, due to innumerable crevasses and narrow leads
by snow. Ridges of heavy ice were from 25 to 50 ft. high. Beyond
the disintegrated pack
A few days later , traveling eastward along the coast from Cape Morris Jesup ,
Peary saw open water a few miles offshore all along the coast.
Greenland
Cape Morton
of Petermann Peninsula and the southeastern entrance spoint of the northern
end of Kennedy Channel. The cape lies about 10 miles north-northeastward
of Cape Bryan. The coastal ridge immediately behind Cape Morton rises
to over 2,700 ft. Rasmussen, who camped in this vicinity in April,
1917, found and used a cache of provisions left there by the Nares Expedition
in 1875. The cape was named after W. Morton, steward of the Kane Expedition,
who reached his farthest north, Cape Constitution,lat. 80° 10′N., in June
1854.
Greenland
Murchison Sound,
is entered between Hakluyt Island (at lat. 77° 25′N.) at the northeastern
end of Baffin Bay, and Cape Robertson, on the Greenland mainland, about 34 miles
to the northeastward. The sound, which is over 50 miles long, extends south-south–
eastward, narrowing to about 8 miles at its inner end, between Herbert Island
and [ R ] ed Cliff Peninsula. Shoals,extending off this peninsula,reduce the latter
part of the channel to about half its size.
investigated by Peary between 1891 and 1895. Steaming up between Northumberland
and Herbert Islands , on 23 July 1891, Peary, in command of the Kite , found the
eastern end of the sound still blocked by unbroken ice. Along the sound's northern
shore new ice was found to be forming toward the end of September. According
to Lauge Koch (1920-23), a heavy swell from the south will run along the coast
to the northward (Prudhoe Land), when Murchison Sound is free from ice.
Greenland
Nares Land,
No r d e nskiøld Fjord. The area, which is about 25 miles wide at its broadest, is
en [ ] tirely covered with ice, except for a very narrow margin along its coasts.
Cape Wohlgemut (82° 35′N., 47° 20′W.), at the northwestern extremity
of Nares Land, rises to about 2,300 ft., but elevations inland are considerably
higher and come close to the 5,000 ft. mark.
Expedition (1881-84).
Greenland
Newman Bay,
is entered between Cape Sumner (81° 56′N., 60° 50′W.), and Cape Brevoort,
about 8 miles north-northwestward and trends southeastward, and then south–
southeastward for a total of about 39 miles. The capes near the entrance
are high limestone mountains, affordin g a view not only over the Polar Sea
and the north coast of Grant Land, but also far inland to a great table-land
rising near the Inland Ice. The inner shores are mostly clay plains, cut
through by a number of streams. Reynolds Island and the smaller Howgate Island
lie about 13 miles from the narrow head of the bay.
by him after the Reverend Dr. Newman of Washington, D.C. Peary, in August 1905,
took the Roosevelt into Newman Bay, where she staid 5 days, when she was crowded
out by ice drifting in from the north. Rasmussen, in May 1917, found the
bay filled with several-years-old Polar ice, hilly and rough and bare of snow.
Greenland by the Polar Sea, 85 ff. Nourse, American Explor. in the Ice Zones 275,295
AAF Aer, Ch. 8, 1943
Greenland
Niaqornat,
West Greenland, lies on the northern shore of Nugsuak Peninsula, about
35 miles west of Umanak Colony. The population in 1930 was 86 Greenlanders.
The official buildings, which are grouped together on a cape, consist of a simple
wooden church, a school, manager's house, stoe and warehouse. Anchorage
is afforded in a depth of about 19 fathoms in a cove nearby. The harbor
easily fills with ice. The winter ice remains from January to June.
Greenland
Nordenskiøld Fjord,
between Cape Middendorff (82° 38′N., 46° 20′W.), and Cape Wegener, about
10 miles northeastward. The fjord extends about 12 miles southeastward to
the floating termination of Jungersen Glacier at its head. Both shores
are covered with glaciers, the land beyond rising to heights of from 1,800
to over 3,000 ft.
explored and named Jungersen Glacier in 1917, found icebergs packed densely
from shore to shore, a few miles within the fjord's entrance.
Greenland
Nordost Bay
to the northward. The large Ubekyendt Island, about 23 miles within the
entrance, divides the bay into two parts, with Umanak Fjord occupying the
southern section and Karrat Fjord the northern one. At their inner ends both
of these fjords spread out into a complicated system of branch fjords
and sounds, terminating at the foot of productive glaciers which discharge
innumerable icebergs and growlers into the bay. Charted depths in the bay, as
indicated by several chains of soundings, usually are more than 100 fathoms
and in some places more than 500 fathoms. The tidal current runs in along the
northern side of Nugsuak Peninsula and goes out along the southern side of
Svartenhuk Peninsula.
miles within the entrance of the bay, on a small island off the southern shore
of Umanak Fjord. Anchorage is available here and in several other positions
in Nordost Bay.
until April, but most of the bay's wide expanses remain firm enough for sledge
travel until the end of June. (See also Umanak District).
Greenland
North Star Bay
North Water,
Baffin Bay. (See Baffin Bay)
Greenland
Northumberland Island,
the west coast of Greenland. The island is about 19 miles long, east and west,
and 8 miles wide at its broadest. Peary describes it as " a mass of high
summits of
from which exude numerous sea-level glaciers." Maximum altitudes are over 2,000 ft.
Kiatak, an Eskimo settlement on the southwestern shore, had a summer population
of about 15 Eskimos in 1943.
in the whaleboat Faith .
the "Great Ice", p. 473
Greenland
Nugs
s
uak (70° 41′N. 54° 35′W.),
western extremity of Nugs
had a population of 78 Greenlanders, consists of a church and school, a warehouse,
with a store, a manager's house, a blubber storage building and about 15 Greenlander
dwellings. On a promontory, close northward of the settlement is Bjoernefaelden
(Bear Trap) , famous in Greenland legend. It is a European building which
scholars agree was probably built by the early Norse settlers. The walls are
made of 3-foot-square stones, and the building is about 15 by 15 by 6 ft.
fathoms, lies between dipping ledges and is open to the westward. Several
beacons in the vicinity offer aid in navigation. The winter ice forms
in December and remains until May, but from March onward there are numerous
open channels.
Greenland
Nugsuak Peninsula,
and
south by the Vaigat and on the north by Nordost Bay. The smaller southeastern part of th [ ]
the peninsula belongs to Ritenbenk District, the larger northern and northwestern
portion to Umanak District.
height of over 1,000 ft., and thence to elevations of from 6 , 000 to 7,000 ft.
The southern side, which is somewhat lower, has a b
behind which rises a steep basalt cliff. Itivdlek, a broad valley, cuts northwestward
through the western end of the peninsula. West of this valley the mountains recede,
giving way to an outer coast of low jagged cliffs. A characteristic feature
of the middle of the eastern part of the peninsula are two elongated lakes, which lie
about 1,000 ft. above sea level and together measure almost 50 miles in length. The
la r ger and more westerly of the two lakes drains into the 40-mile river Kugssuak,
which discharges through a wide delta south of Niakornarssuk, a hook-shaped
projection on the west coast of Nugsuak Peninsula. Nugsua,
a small outpost at the western extremity of the peninsula, stands at the head of a small
harbor with depths of from 6-1/2 to 12 fathoms. Three other outposts are situated
on the shores of the peninsula. Sarkak, facing Vaigat Sound on the south,
Brown coal is found in several places along the northern and southern shores.
The climate along the shores of Vaigat Sound is considered favorable.
Wolstenholme Fjord cont.
Greenland
Greenland
Nugssuak (Big Headland),
Cape Russel (78° 55′N., 71° 05′W.), and Cape Kent, about 18 miles
east-northeastward [ ] Cape Frederick VII and Cape Wood are intermediate
points along this stretch of the coast, which is marked only by slight
indentations. According to Koch the ice-foot along the shore had not been
exposed to melting in the summer of 1922 and proved unusually good in
September.
list Nugssuak (Big Headland) as Nugssuak (coastal area).
Greenland
Nugssuak (Upper Nugssuak Peninsula),
District of northwest Greenland, in lat. 74° N., extends nearly 29 miles southwestward
from the ice cap at its base; the width of the projection approximates
less than 3 miles.
northward, is extremely rugged with many sharp peaks rising to heights of
from 1,000 ft. to 3,000 ft. Several deep valleys cut across the peninsula
its base, leading from Ryders Isfjord, on the southeastern side, to Kangerdluar–
suk, on the northern side. The middle of th is valley, because of its nearness
to the Cornell Glacier, and the excellent harbor on the northern side, was se–
lected as the base camp of the Univ
Near the middle of the peninsula
lakes which drain into a bay on the northern side. Kraulshavn is a small
settlement situated at the head of a bay that indents the northern side
of Nugs s uak Peninsula near its western extremity. Its harbor is accessible
from July to November.
Kraulshavn .
Greenland
Nutarmiut,
westward of Northern Sound and southward of Uperniviks Isfjord. The island ,
which rises to more than 3,000 ft. , is about 23 miles long, southwest to northeast ,
and has a general width of about 8 miles. The southwestern shore is indented
by a large bay which, in its southeastern part, provides an excellent harbor,
although the entrance is narrow.
Greenland
Nyeboe Land,
over 60 miles, extends roughly between lat. 81° 15′N., and 82° 20′N., and
between long. 53° W. and 60° W. The land, which faces Lincoln Sea and the
northern end of Robeson Channel to the westward, is bounded on the west
by Newman Bay (Cape Brevoort), and on the east by St. George Fjord (Cape
Bryant), while the southern end touches the edge of the Inland Ice. Rasmussen
describes the north coast as "a steep wall of cliff, with attractive patterns
in brown and black along its flanks." Hand Bay and Frankfield Bay indent this
part of the coast. The hills farther inland have a few prominent peaks, among them
Mt. Egerton, which rises to over 4,000 ft. A high tableland occupies the interior
of Nyeboe Land.
1871-72, but the whole of its north coast was first explored by members
of the Nares Expedition, in 1875-76. Since that time the coast has been
traversed by Lockwood, Peary, Rasmussen and Lauge Koch. In all accounts of
sledge journeys in this vicinity, the traveling conditions are described
as most difficult, and more or less continuous road-making is required
for the passage of the sledges.
Greenland
O.B. Bøggild Fjord,
from De Long Fjord. From its entrance at lat. 83° 10′N., close eastward
of Ad. Jensen Fjord, the fjord trends about 24 miles southeastward to
a head so far inside Peary Land, that only a narrow 10-mile strip of land
is left between this fjord and the head of Frederick E. Hyde Fjord to the
eastward. This land, the famous Nordpasset (North Pass), discovered in
1938, by Lauge Koch during his flight over Peary Land, forms the only
connecting link between the northern and southern portion of Peary Land.
of Thule Mountain in De Long Fjord, in June 1917. Rasmussen named it
after Professor O. B.Bøggild, a member of the Scientific Committee of the
Second Thule Expedition.
Greenland 32
Cape Ohlsen (Kaersorssuak)
into Smith Sound at a point about 4 1/2 miles north of Sunrise Point, the
northwestern entrance of Hartstene Bay. The cliffs close to the
cape are precipitous.
Greenland
Olrik Fjord,
southeastern part of the large embayment that is formed at the junction of
Whale and Murchison Sounds with Inglefield Gulf. The fjord is entered between
the large Savage Glacier and Beaufort Bluff (Kangek), about 5 miles to the
northward and thence extends about 39 miles eastward, twice narrowing to a width
of about 1 mile. The head of Olrik Fjord is but a short distance from the
head of Academy Bay, the same ice stream sending down a branch into each.
cliffs and steep bluffs, but the shores along the inner section flatten
out into a succession of rounded hills and ridges, rather rich in vegetation
and game. [ ]
[ ]
[ ]
A number of short streams water both shores.
on the northern side of the fjord, drains a large lake to the northward which
is ice-free only along its shores. The lake has another outlet northward
into Inglefield Gulf. Of the six glaciers that enter Olrik Fjord, Savage Glacier,
close the southern entrance, is the largest.
Greenland
Pandora Harbor
Greenland
Parker Snow Bay,
ParkerSnow Point (76° 05′N., 68° 22′W.), and the precipitous Cape
Dudley Digges, over 6 miles northwestward. The bay extends about 5 miles eastward,
narrowing as it nears the two glaciers at its head. The cliffy hills near the
entrance of the bay rise abruptly to over 1,500 ft., then slope more gently
for another 1,000 ft., until they reach the lower level of the Inland Ice.
Millions of little auks nest along the grassy slopes; hares and foxes also
occur. Uigo settlement on the northern side of the bay usually stands
deserted in summer.
15 fathoms.
Greenland 72
Cape Parry (Kangarssuk)
Baffin Bay, forms the west point of Steensby Land and the southeastern
entrance point of Whale Sound. The cape, the most striking landmark
along this part of the coast, is a plateau mountain of diabase sill, rising
steeply to about 1,200 ft.
during Ross' expedition of 1818.
Greenland
Peabody Bay,
between Cape Agassiz (79° 09′N., 65° 40′W.), and Cape Jackson (80° 00′N.,
67° 25′W.) It is bounded on the east by the 60-mile wide Humboldt Glacier, and
on the north by the projecting coast of Washington Land.
1853-55. One party of this expedition, led by Mc Garry and Bonsall, sledged
nothward along its coast in September-October 1853 and discovered the immense
accumulation of icebergs in the northern part of Peabody Bay. Morton of the
Kane Expedition, crossed the bay by sledge in June, 1854. He found the ice
in the southern part of the bay free from hummocks but heavily covered with
snow. The thickness of the ice was over 7 ft., the temperature of the water
29.2° F., while the air was 28° F. The middle of the region was filled with
high icebergs, some over a mile long, which stood close together. North of
this section there was much broken ice, with wide leads. Farther north,and west
of Cape Jackson, the ice was smooth and free from bergs.
who traversed it on several occasions during 1921-23, found the traveling easy.
Judging from the height of grounded bergs, the depth of the water in the bay, about 35 miles
off shore, was estimated to be not more than 20 fathoms.
Greenland
Peary Channel
Greenland
Peary Land
part of Greenland. On the north and east Peary Land faces the Lincoln Sea and the
Mc Kinley Sea, respectively. Its western boundary may be said to be marked
either by J.P. Koch Fjord or the more southeasterly Victoria Fjord. On its
southwestern side is the Inland Ice; while the southern end is bounded by
the Independence Fjord system. The whole area extends roughly between lat. 82° N.
and 83° 40′N., and between long. 20° W. and 48° W.
Melville Land, Vildt Land, Herluftrolles Land and others. Some of these districts
are ice-free, others have ice caps of considerable extent. Plains, and level,
ravine-scarred plateau surfaces alternate with jagged mountain ranges where peaks,
rising to 4,000 and 5,000 ft. are common. Large fjord systems, occasional
lakes, rivers draining small local glaciers , are part of the general picture of this
most northerly land of the world. The highest altitudes occur in the center
of Peary Land where the widely visible, volcano-shaped Mt. Vistas rises
to about 6,200 ft.; the mountain, with its steep, ice- and snow covered gradients,
f or
Fjord and north - ward toward Frederick E.Hyde Fjord. The latter two fjords run
in on the northeastern and southeastern side of Peary Land, respectively,
and form huge indentations, cutting through the whole width of Peary Land except for
narrow connecting strips of land at their western end.
Palaeozoic rock (sandstones and limestones), the high mountains forming part
of the Caledonian foldings that extend from Europe and Svalbard westward to
Ellesmere Island. There are in numerous areas fa
land, providing pasturage for musk-oxen and smaller herbivorous animals such
as hares and lemmings. Wolves, bears and foxes also occur. Seals are plentiful
Peary Land cont.
in the waters off-shore, and many land- and seabirds (gulls, ptarmigan, geese,snow buntings, sanderlings, ringed plovers, snowy owls and even ravens)
have been observed along all coasts.
sighted by Lockwood of the Greely Expedition, who reached Lockwood Island
(83° 24′N., 39° 55′W.), in May 1882. Peary, in 1900, extended the exploration
of the north coast and first contributed to the charting of the region. He discovered
and named Cape Morris Jesup, Greenland's north point, and explored the regions to the
south and east of the cape. Peary, however, had first sighted Peary Land
from the south in 1892 and again in 1895, after crossing the Inland Ice from west to east.
His first journey brought him to Navy Cliffs, at the head of Independence Fjord
on July 4, 1892. Here, from a height of nearly 3,000 ft. he viewed the sur–
rounding lands [ ] and,to the northeastward,the cliffs of Melville
Land ,
depression which he believed connected Independence Fjord with Nordenskiøld
Fjord cutting into Peary Land from the northwest. As a result of his observations,
Peary Land was charted as an island, separated from Greenland by the so-called
PEARY CHANNEL (see Independence Fjord).
Expedition (1906-08) and by Rasmussen's First and Second Thule Expeditions
(1912 and 1917). Both Mylius-Erichsen and Rasmussen doubted the existence
of the P ea
not quite solved until 1921, when Lauge Koch discovered Wandel Valley. The valley,
which is traversed by a river and has a delta-like appearance, connects Brønlund Fjord
a bra n ch of Independence Fjord, with Midsummer Lake to the westward, but the
depression beyond, leading from Midsummer Lake to the head of J.P. Koch Fjord, was
found to be solid land, forming the connecting link between Peary Land and the
mainland to the southward.
Peary Land cont.
corrections. Viewing northern Peary Land from a height of 8,000 ft., Koch
found this area, too, to be almost an island. Frederick E. Hyde Fjord, at its southern
end, extended so far westward that only a narrow, ten-mile strip of land
remained between the head of this fjord and C.B.Bøggild Fjord coming in from the
northwest. (See also the various "lands" under their individual heading: Melville,
Nansen, Vildt Land, etc.)
MG 65, 430. MG 130 pp. 320, 322 Encyclopedia Brit. Vol. 10, p. 859 (1929).
[ ] AF Aer. Ch. (8) (9), 1943.
Greenland
Peary Lodge
Upernivik District of northern West Greenland, was the northernmost base
station occupied by the University of Michigan Greenland-Expedition during
1932-33. The station was located about 2-1/2 miles westward of the ice edge,
in the middle of the valley which leads from Ryders Isfjord on the southeastward
to Inugsulik Bay on the northwest. Two auxiliary stations were maintained by
the expedition, one at Kraulshavn at the western end of the peninsula,
and one at Camp Watkins on the Inland Ice (74° 40′N., 47° 30′W.).
expeditions of the University and acted as official representative of Pan
American Airways in the survey of the west coast of Greenland. The highest
temperature recorded at Peary Lodge was 62° F., in July, and the lowest -36° F. ,
in March. The average annual temperature was 14° F. During the entire year
there were not more than 15 storms with gust winds velocities of over 50 miles p.h.
Surface winds were predominantly from south to southeast. Strong winds from
the Inland Ice, which were experienced at Peary Lodge, left Kraulshavn practically
untouched; this is in accord with other observations of the University of
Michigan Expeditions, that strong winds from the Inland Ice are dominant only
a short distance seaward; at the outer islands the prevailing winds were coastwise.
Greenland
Permin Land,
are covered by a glacier. Its maximum diameter is about 11 miles.
of Permin Land, rises to about 2,600 ft. The land here forms a tongue-like
projection and extends to within about 1 mile of the southern extremity
of Henrik Island; the passage between the small tongue and the island
connects Sherard Osborn Fjord with an inner fjord, which is the continuation
to the southeastward of Harz Sound.
f or
B
Osborn Fjord.
Greenland
Petermann Fjord,
Marie (81° 10′N., 62° 50′W.), and Cape Tyson, about 15 miles northeastward.
The fjord trends south-southeastward for a distance of nearly 60 miles, flanked on
both sides by steep cliffs rising to ice-covered lime-stone plateaux, 2600 ft.
high or more; the ice from the plateaux occasionally sends small glacier tongues
over the cliffs.
southeastward into the Inland Ice as a curved and fairly well-defined depression,
totalling about 110 miles in length. The face of this glacier lies about
12 miles within the entrance of Petermann Fjord and is described as low and of smooth
surface. The glacier's inner portion, beyond the head of the fjord, slopes up
gradually to the Inland Ice and is heavily crevassed. Few, if any bergs are discharged
into the fjord.
investigated by Bessels, a member of the Hall Expedition, in March, 1872. Bessels,
at that time, believed the fjord to be a strait, continuing indefinitely inland.
Fulford and Coppinger, of the Nares Expedition, examined the fjord in June, 1876,
and contrary to Bessels, immediatel y realized that what they saw before them was
floating glacier ice and that the fjord was actually"the outlet of a large glacier
stream flowing probably from the eastward, to which the glaciers flowing through
the north-east and southwest cliffs are insignificant tributaries." Peary,
who had a camp on the upper portion of the glacier in May, 1892, traced
Petermann
Ice for no less than 110 miles from the glacier Front. His observations
were later confirmed by Lauge Koch, who passed the inner portions of the glacier
in 191 7 , and again in 1921.
Greenland
Petermann Glacier
Greenland
Petermann Peninsula,
Kennedy Channel and Hall Basin, with Cape Morton, (81° 12′N., 63° 40′W.) its north point, marking
the ju n ction point of these two waterways of the Smith Sound Route.
From Cape Morton the peninsula extends about 40 miles southeastward, the main
body of the land separating Bessels Fjord from Petermann Fjord. The southernmost
point of the peninsula faces Petermann Glacier and is named Cape Thorsen.
covered by Highland Ice . The cliffy, ice-free margin near the coast is somewhat
lower, but largely broken up by ice-streams and river-mouths. A bight east
of Cape Morton leads to a head, where a terrace-like beach stretches up, like an amphi–
theater, toward the ice-covered inner portions of Petermann Peninsula.
(See also Cape Morton).
Greenland
Polaris Bay,
coast (Hall Land), between Cape Tyson(81° 19′N., 60° 55′W.), and a low point,
next to the mouth of a
rounded hills and deeply eroded rocks, which cuts northeastward through all
of Hall Land, to the head of Newman Bay. The more southerly shores of Polaris
bay are inter
was anchored in Thank God Harbor, close northward of Polaris Bay, from September
1871 to August 1872. Hall's party
in large and small game despite its barren aspect.
Greenland
Port Foulke
Pandora Harbor,
Greenland
Prince Regents Bay,
northern shore of Melville Bay, between Cape Melville (76°01′N., 63° 40′W.),
and
two distinct parts by a large promontory, which projects southward for about 14 miles
from the mainland into the middle of the bay; the southeastern extremity of this
promontory is named Akuliarusek. The irregular shores of the series of bays
that make up Prince Regents Bay are characterized by many small, ice-free land
areas, which generally appear as steep bluffs rising from the sea. At the
heads of the various indentations there are numerous mountains, partly or wholly
ice-covered but nevertheless distinguishible; otherwise the smooth Inland
Ice covers long stretches of the shores.
first became known when Sir John Ross in 1818 found rude knives and hapoon points with
cutting edges of iron in the possession of the Polar Eskimos. The iron, he was
told, had been obtained from an "Iron Mountain" on the northern shore of Melville
Bay, where the iron was in several large masses. Ross obtained fragments of the
metal, and an analysis of these led to the belief that the iron was of meteoric
origin. The question, however, was not definitely settled until 1894, when Peary,
guided by an Eskimo, was given a chance to examine the
"Iron Mountain." He found it on a promontory, now know as Ironstone Mountain,
but it was not a mountain or a vein of iron but two masses of homogenuous
metal, the peculiar and unmistakable characteristic of which proved them to be
true meteoric iron; a third and large r mass was found on Meteorite Island, nearby.
Peary , in 1895 , took the two smaller meteorites to New York, where they were presented
to the American Museum of Natural History. The largest of the three, wei
36 and 37 tons, were loaded on the Hope , in August 1897, and also taken to the
Prince Regents Bay cont.
American Museum of Natural History.Greenland
Prøven
West Greenland, lies off the southern end of Kangek Peninsula, on the middle
island of the Prøven or Kangersuatsiak island group. The population, in 1930,
consisted of 239 Greenlanders and 4 Danes. The houses,
are grouped along the shores of a small cove that indents the northwestern side
of the island, while a few other buildings stand on the eastern shore of the
neighboring Sand Island. The official buildings, most of which date back to
1830-50, consist of a manager's house, two warehouses, a factory building,a
chapel and a school. At the inner harbor, inside the settlement cove, there is
a well-kept concrete wharf and a small boat landing as well as means for handling
stores; depths here are from 1 to 5 fathoms. The outer harbor lies in a bay
formed by the whole of the island group. It is entered from the westward, and depths
in the fairway of the entrance channel are more than 24 fathoms. The freeze-up
here comes late in November and the break-up in June.
whales their chief source of income, are known among the most capable and
daring in the district.
Greenland
Prudhoe Land,
by Inglefield in 1852, was the entire peninsula extending from Inglefield Gulf to
the northeastern extremity of the present Inglefield Land. To-day,Prudhoe
Land is the name given to a considerably smaller area, covering only the ice–
capped southern part of that peninsula, between lat. 77° 50′N. and 78° 25′N.
and between long. 73° W. and 70° W. The Inland [ ] ce here attains elevations
of nearly 5,000 ft.
its edges almost everywhere descending down to the sea or leaving only
a narrow fringe of ice-free land. Ice -cap conditions on Prudhoe Land
were first investigated by Lauge Koch, between 1917 and 1921, and later
by J.M. Wright of the 1937-38 British Expedition under David Haig-Thomas.
Wright made several traverses of Prudhoe Land in the spring and summer
of 1938.
Greenland
Qaersut
West Greenland and administrative center for the Qaersuarssuk coalmine, stands
on the north side of Nugsuak Peninsula, about 29 miles west-northwestward
of Umanak Colony. In 1930, the combined population of Qaersuk and Qaersuarssuk
numbered 117 Greenlanders. Official buildings include a combined church
and school, a warehouse with a store, a manager's house and warious other warehouses.
The coalmine, which is about 1 mile to the northwest, has an average
production of about 1,500 tons a year. A river delta nearby serves as a harbor
to the mine.
Greenland
Red Cliff Peninsula.
side of Murchison Sound, separates Bowdoin Bay from McCormick Bay. From
its base, which is about 7 miles wide between the heads of the two bays, the
peninsula extends about 20 miles southward, broadening to a width of about
23 miles at its southern end. The west point is Cape Cleveland (77° 35′N.,
70° 10′W.), a striking yellow bastion, which forms the southern entrance point
of Mc Cormick Bay. The low foreshore,
14 miles southeastward, consists of crumbling, disintegrated sandstone and
drift formations, with a succession of fan-shaped r
glacier streams. Wide shoals, on which numerous icebergs ground, have been
formed off this coast by deposits brought down by glacial streams. The
rocky interior attains elevations of about 3,000 ft. and is almost entirely
co
Peninsula .(See also McCormock Bay.)
Greenland
Refuge Harbor,
that extends in a northeastern direction along the southern side of
Cairn Point (78° 31′N., 72° 35′W.). M
his winter-quarters in 1923-24, taking up birth on September 11th. By
September 22, the harbor was frozen over solidly, but in her position
at the head of the cove, the B owdoin was safe from ice-pressure. She left
the harbor on July 31st, 1924, after sections of the harbor ice had been
saw a d out.
Greenland
Rensselaer Bay,
Cape Ingersoll (78° 38′N., 71° 35′W.), and Cape Leiper, about 12 miles
east-northeastward. The bay extends about 6 miles east-southeastward to
a narrow head, encumbered by two islets.. Two
Ice, flow into the head of the bay, their mouths flanking an old Eskimo
settlement, Aunatoq, and various house rouins in the vicinity. The tall sand–
stone mountains, that rise on both sides of the outer part of the bay, give way
near the head, [ ] to a series of rounded hills of gneiss-granite with traces
of verdure showing wherever the snow has been blown away. [ ] ares are abundant
on the plateauland farther inland, while seals and bearded seals are plentiful
in the waters offshore.
between the small islands near the head of the bay. In this position she was
secure from outside ice pressure, but,as the ice did not move out of the bay
during the next year, the vessel remained beset and was unable to leave port.
Finally, in May 1855, Kane decided to abandon the ship and journey southward
to Upernivik by sledge and boat.
Greenland 42
Cape Robertson (Tuloriok)
entrance point of the western end of Murchison Sound. The cape forms
the southwestern extremity of a large, ice-covered mainland promontory
rising to over 3,200 ft.
Greenland
Robertson Bay
71° 22′W.), and Kangek, about 13 miles southeastward. The bay, which
maintains an average width of 5 miles, deserves its native name" Imnaksaoh",
signifying "the precipitous place", because the scenery along its shores
is bold, with high cliffs rising sheer from the sea. The face of Verhoeff
Glacier, which is moving rapidly, occupies the eastern side of the head of
the bay, and terminates in a wall of ice nearly 100 ft. high. Granite
peaks, with sheer cliff faces 1,000 ft. high, rise to elevations of more than
4,000 ft. at the edges of the glacier. Meehan Glacier, which occupies the
western side of the head of Robertson Bay, also dis c harges into the bay. At
several places on the shores of Robertson Bay there are native dwellings, which
are stopping places for the Eskimos on their return from the spring walrus–
hunt grounds off Cape Chalon. One of these settlements, Sioropaluk (Igdluluar–
ssuit), on the northwestern side of the bay, was Lauge Koch's headquarters
during the years 1920-23. The dwelling-place, which has a trading-post and a
store, has a population of about 50 Eskimos (1943). A Greenland Administra–
tion supply vessel calls once a year, and a 20-foot motor boat is based
at the se
Greenland
Robeson Channel,
Grant Land, on the Ellesmere Island side, forms the northernmost and narrowest
part of the Smith Sound Route, leading from Baffin Bay to the Polar Sea. Robeson
Greenland , and Cape Murchison , . Escamilla DsCaud. Its approximate northern end, off the entrance
to Lincoln Sea, is defined by a line running from Cape Stanton (82° 13′N.,
57°00′W.), Greenland, to Cape Sheridan, Ellesmere Island. The trend of
the channel is northeasterly; the width is from 13 to 17 miles, except at the
wider northern and southern ends. Newman Bay, north of Polaris Promontory,
is the only major indentation in the eastern coast of the channel, while
the western coast is relatively even.
a few feet distant, by an almost continuous ragged-topped wall of accumulated ice,
from 15 to 35 ft. high. Altitudes on the land on either side are generally low,
except on Polaris Promontory, at the northern end of Hall Land, where Mt. Chester
rises to over 2,500 ft. Soundings within the channel, taken by Peary in
1906 and 1908, range from 289 to 411 fathoms in the narrow southern part, and from
240 to 261 fathoms at the wide northern end.
great pressure from the strong current that sets southward through the channel
and also from the momentum of additional masses of ice from the Arctic Ocean that
pour into the northern end of the channel.
narrowest part of the channel, where the Polaris Promontory acts as a wedge
thrust out into the mass of drifting ice floes. On August 30, 1881, Greely
found Robeson Channel almost clear of ice, but soon afterwards a northwest
galle filled it with heavy floe ice from the Lincoln Sea. The channel continued
Robeson Channel cont.
densely packed with ice through September and the first half of October, but onOctober 26 was again open in all directions except for small and unimportant
drifting ice and a few floes that were grounded along the shore. Lauge Koch,
in April 1921, found Robeson Channel covered with smooth ice that had evidently
been formed during the preceding winter; the heavy polar ice was not encountered
until near the northern end of the channel, where it lay in large
heavy pressure ridges.
named it after Geo. M. Robeson, Secretary of the U.S. Navy. Hall's vessel, the
Polaris , reached her farthest north, 82° 11′N., north of Polaris Promontory
on August 30, and four days later found moorings in Thank God Harbor, south of
Cape Lupton. From here, the members of the expedition explored Hall Land
(the eastern side of the channel) as far northward as Newman Bay. Points o
the west coast of the channel were charted from board the Polaris and from several
of the Greenland capes. Four [ ] ars later, Nares, in the Alert pushed through
all of Robeson Channel. as far as Cape Sheridan (82° 28′N.), the nignest latitude
ever attained by any vessel up to that time. His ship, which made harbor on Sept. 1, 1875, remained moored here to some grounded pack while winter-
quarters were established on shore. Sledge parties, journeying southward to
Fort Conger, where the Alert's consort, the Discovery ,was anchored, subsequently
produced the first more detailed mpas of the west coast of Robeson Channel. A party
under Beaumont , sent out from Fort Conger, explored the north coast of Greenland to
by members of the Greely Expedition (1881-84), and then by Peary, at various times,
between 1899 and 1902. Peary, in command of the Roosevelt returned to this coast
in 1905 and 1908, twice forcing the Smith Sound Route as far as Cape Sheridan.
Finally, Rasmussen and Lauge Koch, between 1917 and 1921, added to these earlier
surveys by producing the first accurate charts of the Greenland side of Robeson
Channel.
Greenland
Roosevelt Range
Greenland, approximately between long. 30° W. and 37° W. The H.H.Benedict
Mountains and the Mary Peary Peaks are part of the range. Meximum altitudes are
from 4,000 to 5, 000 ft. Glaciers are few and comparatively small.
Greenland 60
Cape Russel
Greenland, forms the northern entrance point of Marshall Bay. The cape, which
project west-northwestward, is about 1,000 ft. high and has a lake on its
top, in which many large s
found the remains of an Eskimo settlement on this cape.
Greenland
St. George Fjord
the north point of Nyeboe Land, and Dragon Point, on Hendrik Island, about
19 miles to the southeastward. From here the fjord trends southward for about
60 miles, flanked in the west by Nyeboe Land, and in the east by Hendrik
Island and Warming Land. The large Steensby Glacier drains into its head.
The fjord is bordered mostly by steep cliffs, and the land on either side
of it is mountainous, an ice-cap close to the inner eastern end of the fjord
rising to a height of about 4,200 ft. The narrow Hartz Sound, wedged in
between the southwestern shore of Hendrik Land and the northeastern shore of
Warming Land, connects St. George Fjord with the head of Sherard Osborn Fjord
to the eastward.
(1875-76).
Greenland
Satut
northern West Greenland, lies on the small Satut Island at
the head of the northern part of Umanak Fjord. The population in 1930 was 201
Greenlanders. The settlement has a church, a school, a manager's residence
and a warehouse with store attached. About 30 Greenlander h ouses are scat–
tered among the fertile hills and valleys of the island. The harbor is small and
without protection from the northwind.
Greenland
Saunders Island,
close outside the entrance to Wolstenholme Fjord in northern West Greenland,
is about 7 miles long, east and west, and about 2 to 3 miles wide. The island,
which attains an elevation of about 1, 300 ft. forms a conspicuous seamark
due to its red and yellow-bonded cliffs, breeding grounds for innumerable
seabirds.
places in the region, partly because a great number of walrus pass here in the
spring, partly because the whalers, waiting for the waters in the northwestern
part of Baffin Bay to open, always made it a port of call. In recent years the
island seems to be inhabited only for temporary periods, and its settlements
may never have been permanent ones. Peary visited the island on several
occasions in 1894.
Greenland
Cape Scott
Greenland, between Dallas and Advance Bay, rises to about 500 ft.
An islet lies close northward of the cape.
Greenland 140
Cape Seddon
Greenland, projects at a point about 60 miles north-northwestward of
Holms Island. The cape is the extremity of a promontory named
Tugtuligssuak (the Great Caribou Land), which extends about 7 miles south–
westward from a low isthmus fronting the Inland Ice. The highest of the
several summits on the promontory rises to about 2,100 ft. The country around
Cape Seddon is dotted with ruins of stone houses, indicating that this
was undoubtedly at one time one of the chief settlements in Melville Bay.
It was rediscovered as a hunting region in 1905, and has been inhabited since.
Caribou were then (1905) found in large numbers on Tugtuligssuak as well as
on some of the smaller islands off the coast, but since the reoccupation they
have been completely wiped out.
Greenland
Sherard Osborn Fjord,
on Hendrik Island, and Cape May, the northeastern extremity of Wulff Land,
about 22 miles to the northeastward. The fjord trends southeastward for about
35 miles between the eastern shore of Hendrik Island and the western shore of
Wulff Land, gradually narrowing to a width of about 12 miles, abreast the southern
end of Hendrik Island. A narrow passage here leads southward to Hartz Sound,
a branch of St. George Fjord. The head of Sherard Osborn Fjord, between
Permin Land, a small mainland projection to the westward, and Wulff Land, is
occupied by the large Ryder Glacier, which sendsa glacier tongue, many miles
in length, northward through the fjord's eastern side. Reef Island, one of
several small islands within the wider outer part of the fjord, was the deposi–
tory of a farthest east record of Lt. Beaumont, member of the Nares Expedition,
who first surveyed and mapped this part of the coast in 1876.
Greenland
Smith Sound,
northwest Greenland and northeastern Canda (Ellesmere Island) , leads northward from
Baffin Bay to Kane Basin. Smith Sound, which is about 29 miles long and 29 miles
wide, has its southern entrance between Cape Alexander (78° 10′N., 73° 09′W.),
Greenland, and Cape Isabella, Ellesmere Land, to the northwestward. The northern
entrance is between Cairn Point (78° 30° N., 72° 25′W.), Greenland, and
Cape Sabine, Ellesmere Island, due westward. The eastern (Greenland) shore although
consisting mostly of waterworn headlands, is backed by fertile land with tall grass;
the country abounds with game, and there are a great number of sea- and landbirds.
The western (Ellesmere Island) shore is higher and mostly ice-covered, with
little animal life.
generally great, probably between 400 and 600 fathoms in the southern part and
between 100 and 200 fathoms in the northern part. The southern part often
remains open, summer and winter, but the middle and northern parts freeze fast
during the winter months, ice forming a solid bridge opposite Etah settlement, on the Gr
Greenland side, over which the Eskimos cross over to Ellesmere Island to hunt
caribou. The break-up of the ice does not occur until sometime during June
and July. Following the break-up of the ice conditions in Smith Sound are
variable, depending upon wind
Kane Basin from which the sound receives its supply of pack-ice. Navigation
is difficult at all times, even in August, when conditions are relatively
favorable.
treasures of India induced a number of Englishmen to eq
Smith Sound cont.
to the Arctic zones. Baffin's farthest north was lat. 77° 45′N.,at the north–eastern end of Baffin Bay, whence he sighted a sound to the northward, extending
beyond the 78th parallel. He named
of his sp o nsors, but the solid ice-field ahead of him checked all further progress.
John Ross, in 1818, sighted the opening of Smith Sound from a position slightly
below that of Baffin, but at that time thought it to be a bay. He named the two
entrance points after his vessels, the Isabella and Ale
search of the Franklin Expedition, entered Smith Sound in August, 1852, but did
not proceed beyond lat. 78° 28′N., due to stormy weather and the advanced
season. [ ] Kane, in 1853 and Hall in 1871 pushed beyond the
sound, but contributed to the knowledge of
wintered on the eastern side of Smith Sound and thence explored the west coast
by sledge. The Greely Expedition (1881-84
at Cape Sabine, while Sverdrup wintered in Rice Strait, west of Cape Sabine
in 1899-1900., later transferring his winter-
Baffin Bay. Peary, Rasmussen,
Bartlett and J.M. worcho - to name only a few of the twentieth century explorers, who have navigated
Smith Sound or wintered along its shores have since added considerably to the
knowledge of this part of the world. (See also Smith Sound Route.)
Mirsky, To the North. Greely, Handbook. [ ] 176 ( [ ] )
Greenland
Smith Sound Route
east coast of Ellesmere Island, connects Baffin Bay with the Arct
Sea. The channel leads in succession through Smith Sound, Kane Basin, Kennedy
Channel, Hall Basin and Robeson Channel, and is entered at its southern end
between Cape Alexander (78° 10′N., 73° 09′W.), Greenland, and Cape Isabella
on the Ellesmere Island side. Its northern limit is defined by a line
running between Cape Stanton (82° 13′N., 57° 00′W.), Greenland, and Cape
Sheridan Ellesmere Island. The waterway, which has a north-northeastward trend,
varies in breadth from 12 to 29 miles except in Kane Basin, where it opens out
to a width of approximately 100 miles.
is permanently covered by ice, while the Greenland side is comparatively ice-free. T
The c au
along these coasts. On the Greenland side a northward flowing xurrent, com –
paratively free of ice, allows the open sea to raise the general temperature, while
on the Ellesmere Island side the Arctic current with its continuous stream of
ice, blocks the bays and does not allow the open water to ameliorate
the cold of the ice-covered land. The prevailing winds also carry more moisture
to the west side, causing fogs when the opposite shore basks in sunshine. Navigatio
however, is hazardous at all times, even in August which is considered the best
period. Ice floes of all shapes and sizes are driven from the Arctic Ocean
southward through the channels of the Smith Sound Route. During summer and
autumn the movement from the Arctic Ocean is constant, with the exception of
brief and infrequent periods, when the combination of a fresh and southeasterly
wind and ebb tide pushes a fan of open water or loosely drifting ice cakes
out from the northern entrance of the route.
Smith Sound Route cont.
of the Smith Sound Route, was discovered and named by Baffin on July 5th, 1616,
after his tiny craft, the Di scovery , had passe
part of Baffin Bay. In 1818, Sir John Ross, in com m and of the
time believing it to be a bay. Ingl ef ield, the first to enter Smith Sound , in 1852,
reached lat. 78° 28′N., on August 27th. Kane (1853), and Hall (1871) pushed northwar
to Kane Basin and Robeson Channel,respectively. Finally , Nares, in command of the
Alert , forced a passage through all of the Smith Sound Route,in July and August, 1875.
His ship remained moored to some grounded pack off Cape Sheridan (82° 28′N).
during the winter of 1875-76, and was later brought safely back home to
Portsmouth, England. Peary, in command of the Roosevelt , was the only other
explorer to repeat Nares' famous enterprise. His vessel winter ed off Cape
Sheridan in 1905-06, and again in 1908-1909, and twice achieved a safe return
voyage to its home port, New York. (For details of these explorations as well
as of exploration of these shores by sledge-parties
H.O. 76, 510 ff Guidebook 759 Bessels, Smith Sound and its
explorations. Peary, Nearest to the Pole.
Greenland
Sontag Bay
about 6 miles north-northwestward of Cape Chalon (77° 58′N., 72° 17′W.),
and Radcliff Point to the northwestward. Three glaciers flow into the
head of the bay; Childs Glacier, the northernmost of these, is much used
as a trav e ling route up onto the interior ice.
of Kane's Expedition (1853-55) and of Hayes' "United States" Expedition (1860-61).
Greenland
South Upernivik ,
northern West Greenland, lies on a small peninsula at the southern
extremity of Kekertarsuak (South Upernivik) Island. The total population
in 1930 was 158 Greenlanders. The official buildings consist of a chapel,
a school, a manager's house, a store and a warehouse. The chapel, which
stands on a hill, is painted red with white trim , and is conspicuous far
out at sea. The harbor, close northeastward of the settlement, is
suitable only for small craft. Ice begins to form toward the end of No–
vember; by the beginni n g of June the harbor is free of ice.
Greenland
Steensby Land
projection on the west coast of Greenland, bounded on the southeast by Granville
Bay and on the north and northwest by Whale Sound. To the southwestward Steens–
b y Land faces Baffin Bay. The area, which has a maximum
32 miles , is almost entirely covered with highland ice, which sends large
glaciers over its steep northern cliffs. The southwestern end of the land,
with its frontage on Baffin Bay, is partly ice-free and marked by a strip of
low foreshore, from 1-3 miles wide, extending southeastward from the island's
western extremity,Cape Parry. There are two breaks i n this low ground, giving
access to two inlets : Drown Bay and Booth Sound .
ward.
a whaleboat in 1894 and which afforded shelter in a bight at the head of its
northern arm. The latter was entered by Rasmussen, in 1917
that a sandy bar, barely awash , extended across its entrance.
for his studies of the Polar Eskimos of the Cape York District.
Greenland
Stor Island (Sagdliarusek)
of Umanak Island. The 12 by 5 mile island falls steeply to the sea on all
but its narrow eastern side , which is lower and slopes more gently.
Inugsugtalik, the highest point on the island, rises to 4,665 ft. The
snow on top of the mountain does not melt, but there are no considerable
glaciers, doubtless because of the slight precipitation.
Greenland
Sugar Loaf Bay,
74° N., is formed between the large island Kugdlerkorsuit and the long,
narrow mainland peninsula Nugssuak. From its 15 mile-wide opening on
Baffin Bay the bay extends eastward for about 23 miles, widening to 29 miles
close to the mainland coast. Ice fjords lead from the southeastern
and northeastern ends of the bay. The middle part of the wide head is
occupied by an irregular, ice-free land mass with elevations of more than
3,500 ft. Southward of the landmass the smaller Ussing Glacier
debouches into Uss i ngs Isfjord, while north of the land mass, Cornell Glacier
terminates in Ryders Isfjord. Cornell Glacier is rated third in importance
of the glaciers in Upernivik District and is slightly active along the entire
sea front; bergs , detaching from the glacier , are large, and during the
winter season the sea ice may be rent for miles around by the wave resulting
from a single calving.
cliff, less than 1,000 ft. high, which rises on Sugar Loaf Island (Umanak)
in the middle of the bay's entrance. A few small islands in the middle of
the bay are inhabited.
Greenland
Svartenhuk Peninsula (Sigguk) ,
separates Uvkusigsat Fjord, a branch of Karrat Fjord, from
the narrow Umiarfik Fjord to the westward. The peninsula, which extends
southward for over 60 miles, is narrow at its base but widens to about
36 miles at its southwestern extremity. Some isolated peaks in the south–
east rise to over 5,000 ft., but the coast is usually no more than
2,000 ft. high, and the interior of the peninsula is rolling prairie land.
Sigguk, the Zwarte Hoek of the Dutch, from which the peninsula takes its
name, is a remarkable steep and inaccessible cliff at the extreme west coast.
Near here are three small bays, all of which terminate in great valleys with
considerable rivers. The bays afford anchorage to smaller craft.
Greenland
Tasiussak
Greenland, lies on the west side of Tasiussak Island in Tasiussak Bay. In 1930
the population numbered 177 Greenlanders and 1 European. The official buildings,
which include a church with a schoolroom attached, a manager's house, a store
and a warehouse, are grouped around the harbor, while the Greenlander houses
occupy a small promontory about 1/2 mile westward of the trading post.
The community secures its livelihood by hunting seal; a few white whales
are caught in the autumn.
find anchorage in a small adjacent bay, but the position is exposed to
winds from the southwest. (See also Tasiussak Bay.)
Greenland
Tasiussak Bay,
ill-defined area lying between Upernivik Icefjord and Giesecke's Icefjord, or
between lat. 73° 05′N. and 73° 37′N. The wh
islets and rocks, of which Tasiussak Island forms the center, and the
large Tugtokortok Island the most northerly point. The head of the bay
is formed mainly by two large and rather high mainland projections between
which the Inland Ice descends to the sea. An unnamed, highly active glacier
discharges into the more southerly side of the bay.
bay. The flora here is relatively rich, and turf for building houses can be cut.
Tasiussak outpost, which has a harbor suitable for all but the largest ships,
is the main settlement in the bay. Navigation is possible from July to
September.
Greenland
Thalbitzers Point (Thalbitzers Naes)
Peary Glacier. The projection is the dividing point between the southern and
northern sections of Melville Bay. From this point the shore trends generally
westward more than 92 miles to Cape York and is indented by numerous large
bays, which are separated from eachother by irregular, ice-covered
projections.
Greenland
Thank God Harbor,
of Cape Lupton (81° 40′N., 61° 55′W.) and close northward of Polaris
Bay. The small bay borders a low country with occasional rounded hills rising
to from 900 to 1,400 ft.
The Polaris was anchored in the open roadstead, inside the line of the
main current, but some shelter was afforded by a small cape to the northwestward
of the ship's position. Hall died
and his grave at the head of the harbor was later marked by a tablet erected by
Sir George Nares , of the British Arctic Expedition of 1875-76. The
remained beset until August 1872, when open water south of Cape Lupton
permitted her to bear up for home.Her southward drift,however, was stopped
off Lifeboat Cove, in Smith Sound, where she was run ashore and ultimately,
Greenland
Thom Island (Kapiarfigssalik)
Bay, off the west coast of Greenland, about 16 miles west-southwestward
of Cape Walker. Astrup, who surveyed the island in 1894, as a member of
Peary's
a cone-shaped rock formation, about 300 to 400 ft. high. An iceberg bank extends
off all its sides, except the northwestern one.
all the early habitations in Melville Bay. While
found southward of this point, none have been found between here and Bushnan Island
to the northwestward.
Greenland
Th. Thomsen Fjord
three fjords leading from De Long Fjord in northern Greenland. Flanked
on the west by Nansen Land and on the east by a large unnamed island and thence by
a small mainland projection, the fjord trends southeastward, then south–
southeastward for a distance of about 25 mi
midways from the eastern side of Th.Thomsen Fjord, rounds the southern
end of the unnamed island and opens out into Ad. Jensen Fjord. The shores of
Th.Thomsen Fjord are ice-free except for a few small glaciers near the head.
named after the Inspector of the National Museum at Copenhagen.
Greenland
Thule,
known also as the Cape York District, lies between latitudes 74° 10′N.
and 80° 09′N., and is bounded on the south by Holm Island and on the north
by the southern end of Washington Land. It thus includes all of the
coast lying between the southern end of Melville Bay and the northern end of
Kane Basin. The most recent of the administrative districts of Greenland,
Thule was taken over by the Greenland Administration and organized as a district
in 1937. The residents are the Polar Eskimos, so named by Knud Rasmussen,
who have survived by reliance on Arctic culture. Fishing and hunting from the
edge of the ice form their main source of income. However, because of the
nomadic nature of the
sporadically, their inhabitants moving into tents in summer. In 1944
the population amounted to about 310. The colony and main administrative
center of the district is Thule, and the principal harbors are at Thule,
Cape York and Etah. Trade-in-production for 1944-45 (after deductions
for local consumption) was as follows: blue and white fox skins 1,077;
sealskins 1,081; narwhal tusks 100 kg; eiderdown 191 kg.
between Holm Island and Cape York, at the northern end of Melville Bay,
is completely covered by ice, except for an occasional protruding
nunatak or mountain peak. The Inland Ice here is comparatively low, with
elevations of from 1,300 to 1,600 ft. There are few indentations along this
coast.
of Smith Sound, about 145 miles to the northward, is much more ice free than
the southern part; the margin of the Inland Ice is broader, and only through
the larger valleys do glaciers come all the way down to the coast. The rock
is gneiss which, in most parts, is covered by layers of sandstone and lime-
Thule District cont.
stone, forming plateaux with steep, multi-colored cliffs, facinSome isolated peaks attain elevations up to 4,000 ft. Two major indentations
are Wolstenholme Fjord and Ingl
which is ice-free, and by the 60-mile wide Humboldt Glacier. The edge
of this glacier slopes evenly into the sea, and in general does not
exceed 164 ft. in elevation. The cliffy but relatively low coast of Ingle–
field Land is famous for its ice-foot.
there is a thick growth of grass and flowering plants in many places.
Land animals in the district include caribou, blue and white foxes, Arctic
hares, polar bears and once, in a generation, a stray wolf. Main
marine animals are [ ] walrus, narwhal, white whale and various types
of
in the district cliffs.
at Thule Colony (q.v.) in Wolstenhome Fjord, and sporadic meteorological data ,
furnished by various expeditions , are also available from the Inglefield Gulf
region. The midnight sun shines for about 4 months, and for nearly as
long a period the sun is below the horizon. Mean temperatures above freezing
occur only in June, July and August. Storms are mostly from the southeast
and south and come at all seasons, but calm weather is frequent and preci–
pitation is slight. Fogs occur during the summer months; ice fog, which is
frequent, produces the so-called "white rainbow", a sight of exceptional beauty.
Mirages may be observed in the spring and fall. Ice conditions are similar
for the entire district. In calm w
end of August or early in September and remains fairly sound until June or
July. However, open water is never far distant from the outermost
Thule District cont.
coast, for the tides sweeping through Smith Sound prevent the formationof ice even in the coldest winters. The closely packed winter ice still floats
along the coast at the end of July, and only August and sometimes early
September bring a properly open sea.
discovered the region in 1616, but actual contact with its Eskimo population
was first established by Sir John Ross, in 1818. The Kane Expedition,
in 1853-55, first wintered on th
friendly natives, [ ] and in the 1890ies Peary introduced
implements and firearms. Topographical surveys, resulting in the first
detailed maps of the region were made by K.Rasmussen and Lauge Koch
between 1916 and 1923, and a primarily ethnographical survey, reaching
from Thule, Greenland, to Alaska and Wrangel Island, was completed by
Rasmussen in 1924. The district has since been visited by many expeditions
and since its integration with the Northern I n spectorate of West Greenland,
is supplied by a ship of the Greenland Administration, which calls once
a year. Weekly communication by plane between the U.S. and Thule is
maintained by the U.S. Army Air Force s , which ha
colony since Wo
Exploration of the Arctic since the days of flying p. 29 (Mss. E.A. files.)
Greenland
Thule,
since 1937 the colony and administrative center of Thule District,
side of Wolstenholme Fjord. Founded in 1910 by a Danish Committee headed
by Knud Rasmussen with the object of safeguarding the Polar Eskimo against
exploitation by private traders and to serve as a base for exploration and
trade, it became the colony of Thule District on August 1, 1937,
when the whole of that district was taken over by the Greenland Admi–
nistration to form a part of the Northern Inspectorate of West Greenland.
The population in 1943 was 120 Greenlanders
buildings include a trading post, manager's house, parsonage, school
and a doctor's residence and hospital (13 beds) combined. The numerous
winter dwellings of the natives are of wood with outside walls of turf, but
are abandoned in summer when the population moves into tents, hunting and
fishing from the edge of the ice being their chief source of income.
The settlement own s several 20- foot motor boats and several hundred sledge
dogs. Sledge teams travel to and from various other settlements in the
district about twice a month from December to May. A supply ship of the
Greenland Administration calls once a year.
storehouse by means of a small tramway with steel rails, provides anchorage
for ships up to 2,000 tons. It is well protected, but a better anchorage
position, in depths of from 7 to 10 fathoms, is indicated under a steep clif on
the harbor's southeastern side. Navigation of the bay is usually possible
in August.
but new equipment and a new, American-manufact u
installed. Since 1946, a joint Danish-American weather and radio station is
Thule colony cont.
being operated at Thule, and there is a U.S. Army Air Forces base nearby,whence weather-
weather station operates jointly with an American-Canadian Weather
Station at Eureka Sound on Ellesmere Island.(See: History of the
the Scientific Exploration in the Arctic since the days of flying;.
History of U.S. Weather Bueau.)
Greenland
Cape Tyson
Basin in northwest Greenland, forms the northeastern entrance point of Petermann
Fjord . The cape rises to about 1,500 ft., the land beyond sloping up
a plateau, about 2,500 ft. high. Offley Island, about 3 miles
Cape Tyson, is small and steep, its northwestern shore forming a precipitous
cliff. Bessels, a member of Hall's Expedition, found coral fossils on this
island. The cape was named by Hall in 1871.
Greenland
Ubekyendt Island (Igdlorssuit)
Fjord. Erqua (71° 02′N., 53° 40′W.), the western extremity of the island,
forms the northern entrance point of Umanak Fjord and the southern entrance point of
Karrat Fjord. Ubekyendt Island, which is about 21 miles long, north and south, and
about 14 miles broad at its widest, is rugged and attains elevations of more than
3,700 ft. on both its northern and southern end. Steep cliffs form the eastern
shores of the island, while the western side is somewhat less precipitous. On the
lower flat portions of the island there is a luxurio
and a considerable amount of low bush that is used for fuel. The steeper slopes, which
consist of shale, are bare and difficult to climb. Igdlorssuit settlement, one
of the main outposts in
(See also Nordost Bay; Igdlorssuit .)
Greenland
Umanak,
and 72° N., includes all
from this bay. The total area is about 4,579 sq. miles. The population in
was 1, 4
c h ief trading -station is Umanak. Trade-in production for
ductions for local shipments) was as follows: blubber
Peninsula and the islands and promontories in the southeastern part of Nordost
Bay, with maximum elevations here amounting to from 5,000 to 7,000 ft. The rock
on the peninsula
on the islands (Stor
occasionally with eruptive rock. There are also some coal-bearing formations.
west and the deeply indented mainland coast in the east. The latter attains elevations
close to 7,000 ft. but the country on Svartenhuk Peninsula is mainly rolling
prairie land, with some isolated peaks rising to about 3,000 ft. or more.
of the equator. From the Inland Ice no less than 10 huge icestreams come
down to the fjords, and there are countless local glaciers on Nugsuak and Svarten–
huk Peninsulas and on the islands and the promontories along the central part
of the mainland coast.
Umanak cont. Greenland
the sandstone areas the vegetation is relatively lux u riant. In the entire district
there are 181 known varieties of higher plants , of which 26 have their northern
limit here.
hare are plentiful, and caribou are hunted on Nugssuak Peninsula. Polar bears come
every winter; Greenland and bladder-nose seal appear in summer, while ring-seal is
hunted all the year round. Loons, seagulls, black guillemots and fulmars and some
wading birds breed in the district; falcons, ravens and various small birds are
common. The king eider can be seen all summer, but does not breed in the district.
in the district., but
Wegener established in the Nordost Bay area three meteorological stations called
collectively the West Station. They were at Umanak Colony, on Kamarujuk Fjord and at
Scheideck Station on the marg
Umanak | Kamarujuk | Scheideck | |
Yearly mean: (1930-31) | 26,2 | 27,8 | 11,3 |
Winter mean (Dec.-Feb.1930-31) | 14,0 | 13,6 | -3,1 |
Summer mean (June-Aug.1930-31) | 47,2 | 52 | 33,4 |
Maxim temp. | 62,0 | 67,6 | 44,4 |
Minimum temp. | -18,0 | -18,8 | -39,6 |
Umanak cont.
of the district, the sun is absent from November 21 until January 23.
mains safe for traveling over most of the wide expanses till the end of June.
The great masses of calf ice accumulated during the winter often block the
entrance to all fjords and make navigation of the inner waters impossible
until some time in August. The West Ice is usually visible from the outer district
coasts during the whole winter and sometimes approaches them and freezes together
with the winter ice.
Greenland
Umanak
District in northern West Greenland, is at the southern extremity
of Umanak Island, which lies off the northern coast of Nugsuak Peninsula.
In 1938, the population was about 300 Greenlanders and 15 Danes. Public
buildings include administrative buildings, hospital and doctor's residence,
church, school and parsonage. The district hospital, which is supervised
by a resident Danish doctor and a Danish nurse and midwife, has X-ray equipment
and can accom m odate 9 patients. The hospital also has a training school. A
sanitarium, accommodating 20 tubercular children, is under the supervision
of a specially trained Danish nurse. There is a radio station
at Umanak.
and the other, in Spragle Bay, on the western side of the island. Umanak
Harbor (Skibshavn) with depths ranging from 3 to 6 f a t homs, is overshadowed
by a magnificent notched peak from which the island derives its name.
freeze-up in the latter part of December. Easterly winds frequently bring small
bergs and growlers into the inner harbor, but a special signal system informs
incoming vessels as to whether or not the harbor is blocked by ice. (For weather
and temperatures see Umanak District).
Greenland
Umanak Fjord or Bay,
southern arm of Nordost Bay.
between Kanisut (70° 50′N., 54° 08′W.), the northern extremity of Nugsuak
Peninsula, and Erqua, the western end of Ubekyendt Island, and thence extends
about 42 miles eastward, with a maximum width of 24 miles. It is bounded on the
south by the steeply rising basal t shores of Nugsuak Peninsula and on the northern
wide by Ubekyendt and Upernivik Islands, rising to 3,770 ft. and
6,898 ft., respectively.
43 miles, fans out in an easterly, southeasterly and northeasterly direction, its
various arms winding their way past precipitous islands and numerous high mainland
projections to the eastward lying glacier front. A southeastern arm of the
inner fjord continues as Karajak (Qarajaq) Ice Fjord, extending southeastward
along the inner northern shore of Nugsuak Peninsula and terminating at the foot
of the Great Karajak Glacier. The latter, which has a velocity of 60 ft. a day,
discharges large quantities of ice. A short , north-northwestward trending arm
of Karajak, terminates at the foot of the Little Karajak Glacier.
is di
up until the middle or end of June
filled with drif
Hare Island (Vaigat Sound), indicating whether or not vessels can penetrate
the fjord.
positions on Nugsuak Peninsula . (See also Nordost Bay.)
Guidebook 519 H.O. 76, 406
Greenland
Umiarfik ,
Upernivik District of northern West Greenland, wedged in between Svartenhuk and Ignerit
Peninsulas. Umiarfik trends first in an easterly, then in a northeasterly
direction for about 34 miles. The outer shores are basalt, yielding
to gneiss in the interior of the fjord. A number of deep fertile valleys
with lakes converge near the head. The region is rich in caribou.
Greenland
Upernivik,
latitudes 71° 35 ′N. and 74° 30′N., or more specifically, between Svartenhuk
Peninsula in the south and Holm Island, in Melville Bay, in the north. The area
of ice-free land between Baffin Bay in the west and the Inland Ice in the east
totals about 3,745 Sq. miles. In
1930 census also reported 12 Europeans. The colony and main trading station
is Upernivik. Trade-in-production for the year
for local shipments) was as follows: blubber
bear skins
narwhal tusks
consists mainly of large peninsulas and islands, separated by narrow fjords and
sounds. The ice-free land margin is broad, reaching a width of about 75 miles.
Characteristic for the more southerly part of this stretch are relatively high,
flat-topped basalt plateaux. However, at Prøven (72° 22′N.) the rock formations
change from basalt to archean. The islands in many instances rise sheer from
the water's edge, attaining heights of 3,000 ft. or more, their richly colored rock
forming a striking contrast to the glaciers eastward or the Inland Ice beyond.
is split up into a profusion of mostly small and low islands. The latter are icefree, but
the mainland coast is completely icecovered except for a few short promontories, that
rise above the 2,000 ft. mark. In general, elevations here are moderate.
Fourteen glaciers discharge into Umanak Ice Fjord (approx. 73° N.), and nearly
1/5 of the ice front along this part of the coast reaches the sea.
graphite-
Upernivik cont. Greenland
bearing gneiss. CarPholite (a hydrous aluminum manganese silicate) previouslyknown only in France, also occurs, and of greatest interest is the find of beau–
tiful red garnets. The one outcrop of coal at Ingnerit is of poor quality.
The flora of the district, except for the immediate region around the colony and Prøven
outpost is little known. In the interior of the southern fjords and on Svartenhuk
Peninsula a close, luxuriant plant cover
of Upernivik [ ] Ice Fjord the vegetation is poor, a great number of southern species
apparently having been unable to cross the fjord.
seal is abundant everywhere in fjords and coastal waters. Some walrus are taken,
and white whale and narwhals come every spring and fall. Polar bears are seen when–
ever the ice appears. Foxes and polar hares are plentiful, and in recent years the
polar wolf has come down from Melville Bay. Eider ducks, guillemots, auks and other
birds breed in the cliffs, and falcons and ravens are common.
ficance only. The mean temperature at Upernivik throughout the year is 1
July averages temperatures of 41,9° F.; February -10,1° F. From June to September
the average temperature is above freezing, but sub-zero temperatures may occur
any day in the year. The annual precipitation at Upernivik is 8,8 in. The prevailing
wind comes from the east, but calm days are numerous. In the interior of some of
the fjords in the district's southern part the climate is comparable to that of
Disko Bay.
together with the winter ice of the coast. In summer it remains from 10 to 15 miles
off the southern part of the district coast, but on occasion closes in on Upernivik, especially
with winds from the west and southwest. The winter ice forms in October; the
break-up comes in June
Greenland
Upernivik
principal settlement of West Greenland, is situated on a small island of the
same name about 6 miles northwest of Kaersorsuak Island. The settlement, with
a population in
area between Bryghus Bay, a small cove at the island's southwestern end, and Skibs–
havn (Danish Harbor), about 1/2 mile northward. Official buildings consist
of a church, a store, hospital, the doctor's residence, the manager's house,
a building which serves as a residence for the clergyman and the manager's
assistant, and a dance hall. The hospital accommodates 14 patients and is
under the supervision of a Danish doctor and a Danish nurse. There is a radio–
station (
grouped together without any sharp demarcation between those of Danes and Green–
landers. The people, whose chief means of livelihood is sealing, are among
the poorest of the district.
dpeths of from 3 to 12-1/2 fathoms. There is a small wharf at the southern side
of Skibshavn, and several 20-foot lighters are available for fransferring cargo
from ship to shore . On the eastern side of the harbor is a repair slip
where ships may be hauled ashore. A limited quantity of supplies is available at this
port.
middle of December and leaves around the first of June. The winter ice forms
between November and January and breaks up in May or June. From June to
December the coast is open to navigation, except that icebergs are frequent, and the
West Ice may close in on occasion, with prevailing westerly winds.
as the final port of call before sailing on through Melville Bay and Smith Sound
Upernivik cont.
to the regions beyond Cape York.Greenland
Upernivik Ice Fjord,
Upernivik Colony, where it separates a mass of larger and smaller islands
offlying the mainland coast. The fjord's approximate entrance is between
the Avssakutak groups of islets, about 9 miles southeast of Kingigtortagdlit
(73° 02′N., 56° 54′W.), and Tugssak Island, about 6 miles to the northeastwward.
The trend of the fjord is southeasterly, the approximate length 34 miles.
At its head the fjord forms a wide basin , with Upernivik Glacier discharging
into its eastern end, and with two small glaciers emptying into its northern
side. From this basin a second channel leads seaward (parallel to Upernivik
I
and Kagsersuak, a mainland projection to the northward.
many glaciers in this district, and the numerous icebergs, discharged by it,
tend to keep the channels between the various islands completely closed until
July. Once the channels are open, navigation during calm weather is assisted
rather than impeded by some of the bergs grounding on
as their height affords certain evidence of deep water.
of white whales come into
north.
Greenland
Upernivik Island ,
and lies between Umanak Fjord and Karrat Fjord.
17 miles at its broadest, rises to heights of nearly 7,000 ft. and is
characterized by many glaciers, all of which are said to be inactive. There
are coal-bearing deposits in the southwestern part of Upernivik Island, and two
mines supply the inhabitants of Greenland's northern districts with much of
their necessary fuel.
52° 56 ′W.) at the southwestern end of the island, but temporary anchorage can
be found and a landing effected below all the glaciers on the west coast.
Greenland
Uvkusigssat (71° 05 ′N. 51° 54′W.),
southern shore of outer Ignerit, a branchfjord of Umanak Fjord in Nordost
Bay. The population in 1930 was 175 Greenlanders. The houses, which include
a chapel-school, a manager's house, a store and various dwellings, stand close to the
beach of a small bay into which empties a stream. On the beach, a few hundred
yards north of the houses and accessible only at low tide, is a soapstone
deposit. The community secures the largest number of foxes caught anywhere
in the Umanak District.
accomodate
The winter ice remains from December until June with open channels forming
early in the spring.
Greenland
Uvkusigssat Fjord
leads from the head of Karrat Fjord, whence it trends north-northwestward
for about 42 miles. The western shore is formed by Svartenhuk Peninsula,
the eastern shore by a rugged mainland projection. The narrow fjord, which is
lined by steep cliffs, terminates at the foot of a small glacier, which
discharges into the eastern side of the head, filling the fjord's inner portion
with clay deposits. From thewestern side of the head, where some peaks rise
to nearly 4,000 ft., large valleys with lakes extend in a northwesterly
direction to the head of Laxe Fjord. These valleys are comparatively
fertile and support a considerable number of
is little frequented and exposed to all winds.
Greenland
Valdemar Glückstadt Land,
of Danmark Fjord and the eastern shore of Hagen Fjord. Its 20-mile wide northern
shore faces Independence Fjord, which meets the two other fjords at right angles.
From Cape Rigsdagen (82° 05 N., 21° 40′W.),at the confluence of Danmark and
Independence Fjord, the land extends about 70 miles southwestward to a broad
base near Zig-Zag Valley.
glaciers, named Jydske Aas, which occupy its central part. Northward of the glaciers
the land is low and barren, flattening down to sea-level near its northern end.
The southern portion of the land slopes up to a high plateau, bordering the
Inland Ice in the southwest. In the southeast Zig-Zag Valley, so named because
of its twisting course, slopes down to Danmark Fjord. It contains a chain
of glacial lakes within steep-walled valleys; the valleys are connected by
a broad river which drains into Danmark Fjord through a wide delta. According
to Rasmussen and Freuchen, who investigated and named the valley in 1912, the land
here is fertile in stretches and supports caribou and hare. Several species of
landbirds breed in the more sheltered spots.
Erichsen Exedition (1906-08)but has had few visitors since. Einar Mikkelson
explored parts of its coast in 1910, and in 1912, Rasmussen's First Thule
Expedition made their descent from the Inland Ice through Zig-Zag Valley
traveling northward along
agree on the dearth of game in the northern part of the peninsula.
Greenland
Victoria Fjord,
the northeastern end of Wulff Land and Cape Wohlgemuth (82° 34′N., 47° 15′W.),
at the northwestern extremity of Nares Land, about 23 miles northeastward.
The fjord trends southeastward for about 80 miles, maintaining a width
of from 15 to 23 miles except at the narrow head,abreast Danbo Land. C.H. Ostenfeld
Glacier, which drains into the head, penetrates far northward through the fjord,
its floating termination stretching from coast to coast at a point about 23
miles within the entrance. The glacier encircles several ice-capped, island-like
areas in the inner part of Victoria Fjord. Stephenson Island, at the mouth of
the fjord, about 3,400 ft. high, is ice-free. Heights on either side of the fjord
are moderate but the shores of Nares Land are ice-covered while those of
Wulff Land are largely ice-free and rather rich in vegetation.
Expedition (1875-76). Lockwood, of the Greely Expedition (1881-8
Wohlgemuth. The interior of the fjord was first explored by members of Rasmussen's
Second Thule Expedition(1917), who named C.H. Ostenfeld Glacier.
Greenland
Vildt Land (Game Land)
9-mile frontage on Independence Fjord, north of A
conspicuous point along the shore is Navy Cliff (81° 38′N., 33° 36′W.) a rocky
plateau rising almost vertically to a height of 3,800 ft. and affording an excellent view of the entire region. Elsewhere the land
attains elevations of from 2,000 to 3,000 ft., with many of its rocky heights
deeply intersected by fertile ravines and sheltered, well-watered valleys.
small cairn and planting the Stars a nd Stripes on Navy Cliff on July 4th.
Both Rasmussen's First Thule Expedition 1912) and Lauge Koch's Danish Bicentenary
Jubilee Expedition (1920-23) established observation camps here. Peary and the
Rasmussen party shot a large number of musk oxen in Vildt Land. Hares were found
to be plentiful, and lemmings, stats, wolves, foxes and several species
of landbirds with their young brood were also observed. Koch, on the contrary,
found hunting poor in Vildt Land.
Greenland 120
Cape Walker
northwest Greenland, is a prominently projecting point about 39 miles
northward of Cape Seddon. Cape Walker forms the extremity of Nugssuak
Promontory which extends about 6 miles southwestward from the edge of the
land ice flanked on the north and south by two considerable bays. The bay
on the southeastern side is fronted by three islands. The bay to the northward
is entirely occupied by an ice-bank which extends about 14 miles northwestward
along the face of two glaciers, Kong Oscars Brae and Pearys Brae. Kong
Oscars Brae has been reported to be moving rapidly,and is said to be one of
the most productive glaciers in Melville Bay.
Greenland
Wandel Valley,
leading westward from the head of Brønlund Fjord, a branch of Independence
Fjord , to the long and narrow Midsummer Lake. The valley is traversed by
a river and has delta-like character throughout; its vegetation is luxuriant.
theory that Independence Fjord and th
Greenland were connected by a giant channel, severing ice-free Peary Land
from ice-bound Greenland proper. A depression, roughly following the outlines
of the so-called PEARY CHANNEL does exists, and it leads from Brønlund
Fjord through Wandel Valley to Midsummer Lake. The depression,however, ends here.
Between Midsummer Lake and the head of J.P. Koch Fjord is a strip of land, about
14 miles wide, which definitely links Peary Land to the Greenland mainland
to the southward. (See also Peary Channel under Independence Fjord.)
Greenland
Warming Land,
portion of St. Georg e Fjord and the large Ryder Glacier to the eastward.
Hendrik Island, which separates the outer part of St. George Fjord from the
outer Sherard Osborn Fjord, lies close northward of the northwastern end of the
peninsula. From its low, narrow northern end, at lat. 81° 58′N., Warming Land
extends south-southeastward for over 50 miles, rising to about 4,300 ft. in its
central ice-covered part, and thence sloping to from 2,000 to 3,000 ft. at its
wide, ice-free base. The high
the peninsula are called Midgaardsormen and N.P. Johansen Land.
(1917), wh
Greenland
Washington Land (with Daugaard-Jensen Land)
coast between Cape Jackson (80°00′N., 67° 25′W.), and Cape Bryan, about 80 miles
to the northeastward. The area, which is about 35 miles broad, east and west, is
adjoined in the east by a smaller ice-free area, named Daugaard-Jensen Land, extending
all the way to the Inland I
have a maximum diameter of over 90 miles and form the large peninsula that projects
along the northern side of Peabody Bay and Humboldt Glacier.
indentation being Bessels Fjord. For long stretches of this coast the shore is
formed by almost precipitous cliffs, 1,000 ft. or more high. The land back of
the coast is somewhat higher, the southern portion being mostly free of ice
and consisting of wide valleys and isolated mountains, whereas the northern portion
is a level plateau, partly covered with ice-caps. Farther inland, and extending
across Washington Land and parts of Daugaard-Jensen Land there are vast,level,
ice-free plateaux, rising to from 3,000 to 4,000 ft. Daugaard-Jensen Land eventually
levels down to a narrow plain near its northeastern end, while the southeastern
end is higher and marked by several small ice-caps and a series of partly
ice-dammed lakes, called Romer Lakes.
Washington Land. Seals have been observed in occasionally open patches of water,
and polar bears are numerous. Musk-oxen and hares occur inland.
of Washington Land as far as Cape Constitution, at lat. 80° 34′N., but the coast
at large x was first accurately surveyed by Rasmussen in 1917. The large,hitherto unknown
area , called Daugaard -Jensen Land , was discovered by Lauge Koch,in 1921 .
CAIRNS ON WEST GREENLAND
73° W. Long. on August 12, 1875, by the expedition led by Sir George Nares.
The cairns were found on the summit of the island, about 900 feet high.
Captain Nares states in his "Voyage to the Polar Sea", London, 1878,
vol. 1, p. 88: " ... we found two ancient cairns far too old to have
been erected by Dr. Hayes, the only traveler known to have visited the
neighborhood. They were built of conglomerate and rested on a similar
base ... Lichens which had spread from stone to stone also proved that
they were of great age. They contained no record whatever. ..."
found that "the western point of the island was covered with the foundations
of a complete town. In some places mere rings of stones had served to
keep down the edges of summer tents of skins, in other, rectangular
enclosures three yards broad, with excavated floor and with traces of
porch opening seawards, gave unmistakable evidence of more permanent
habitation. ... A little further inland (on Norman Lockyer Island) we
came upon a bird shelter, such as the natives of Danish Greenland still
use to encourage geese and duck to settle on their shores. ..."
of a painstaking builder. "But who was the builder? Not Eskimo.
Structure and site forbade that suggestion. ..."
over Noregsveldets Historie, Norges Svalbard- o
Oslo, 1944.
Greenland
West Station (see Umanak District)
Greenland
Weyprecht Inlet,
50′W.) on Hazen Land and the northwestern extremity of Lockwood Island.
about 7 miles northeastward. The inlet trends about 12 miles southeastward
to its junction with two channels coming in from the northeast and southwest
respectively and with Harder Fjord, which continues due eastward to a head
deep inside the mainland coast.
Navy, who, together with Lt. Julius Payer, explored Franz Josefs Land 1871-74
and established a record of the highest north at 82° 05N., 60° E
Greenland
Hunt Fjord,
of Cape Kane (83° 29′N., 39° 10′W.) and westward of Gertrud Rask Land.
The fjord, which is about 5 miles wide and 7 miles long,trends east-southeasterly
amidst a setting characteristic for this part of Peary Land:
The peaks
Close inland from the large Thomas Glacier at the head
Greenland
Whale Sound,
The strait, which is about 29 miles long and approximately 9 miles wide,
is entered between the northwestern extremity of Steensby Land and
Northumberland Island to the northward, whence it extends east-northeastward.
The southern shore (Steensby Land) is bold and high, its gneissice
cliffs rising to over 2,000 ft. The vegetation here is scanty, and glaciated
drifts of snow remain the year round under the crest of the cliffs. North–
humberland and Herbert Islands, which bound the sound on the north, have cliffs
of sandstone and light-colored rock, between which a number of glaciers
descend to the sea. Several Eskimos dwelling-places have been found
along the southern shores of these islands. Itivdlek, a settlement on the
southern side of Whale Sound, has several stone houses , but in 1891
only six people were living here.
on account of the many whales that were seen, but correct charts of its
shores were lacking until Peary surveyed the region between 1891 and 189
Greenland
Wolstenholme Fjord (Sound),
Greenland, has its 9-mile wide entrance between a point about 4 miles north of
Cape Atholl (76° 23′N., 69° 32′W.) and Cape Abernethy to the north-northeastward.
The fjord extends about 21 miles east-northeastward to a head into which
drain Moltke, Knud Rasmussen, and Chamberlin Glaciers. North Star Bay,
an indentation on the southern side of the fjord, provides an excellent harbor
and is also the site of Thule settlement, the colony of the district.
Wolstenholme Island and the larger Saunders Island, lies immediately off the
entrance of Wolstenholme Fjord. The fjord is usually navigable in July and August.
northwestern side of an elevated plateau which extends eastward and southward to
the edge of the Inland [ ] ce and the northern end of Petowik Glacier, respective–
ly. Two large valleys extend from the inner half of this shore to the edge of
the ice Cap, the plateauland between forming a veritable oasis against the sur–
rounding landscape. The vegetation is comparati
variety of Arctic plant
breeding grounds of the King Eider and the Greater Snow Goose.
precipitous, is marked by several glaciers. The ice-free strip is narrow and
the land much less fertile than that on the southern side.
it after one of their sponsors, Sir John Wolstenholme. Sir John Ross rediscovered
the fjord in 1818 but did not enter into it. J.F.R. Aylen, the
on board the North Star (Captain Saunders,
of the fjord in 1849. His chart, although not published, was reproduced in the
British Admiralty chart. However,
Wolstenholme Fjord cont.
between 1891-94, little was known about the surrounding land. Lauge Koch, in 1916,first charted the head of the fjord. Various other expeditions, among them
the 1937-38 British Expedition under David Haig-Thomas, have since completed
the survey of the entire region.
Greenland
Wright Bay,
side of Peabody Bay, lies midway between Cape Webster (80°00′N.,
65° 40 W.) and Cape Jackson, to the westward. Wright Bay
extends nearly 6 miles northward, narrowing towards its head. Nunatami,
a camping place of the Eskimos, lies close to the eastern entrance point. Back of
Nunatami and Cape Webster the Talilenguak Cliffs attain an elevation of over
1,500 ft. Rasmussen remarks on the phantastic shapes of these limestone
formations, made striking also by their coloring, grey at the bottom and finely
attuned shades of red at their summit. In May there is open water near
Cape Webster. Seals and bears have been observed in the vicinity of
Wright Bay.
Greenland
Wulff Land,
south-east and north-west, and about 25 miles wide, separates Sherard
Osborn Fjord from Victoria Fjord. Cape May (82° 29′N., 50° 50′W.), off
the Lincoln Sea, is its northwestern extremity. Cape Troedsson, its southern
extremity,faces Ryder Glacier
in the east. The greater portion of the peninsula is ice-free, e x cept for smaller
local ice-caps in the northwest
Wulff Land is mountainous, the chart indicating maximum heights of about 5,000 ft.
In the fertile tracts around the valleys at the northern end of Wulff Land
Rasmussen's party shot 16 musk oxen in May 1917, and 13 on their return to this
vicinity in the middle of July. Hares and wolves were found to be numerous.
Greenland 140
Cape York
in northwest Greenland, is a bold, bluff headland, consisting of dark
cliffs with snow on top. At an elevation of 1,460 ft. is a MONUMENT (dedicated
to Rear Admiral Robert E. Peary), about 59 ft. high, which consists of a granite
column on a hexagonal base surmounted by a metal pyramid. A small settlement
in the cliffs close eastward of the promontory is permanently occupied.
About four or five families wintered here in 1920, but the many house ruins
in the vicinity indicate that the settlement was formerly more populous.
after journeying by sledge across Melville Bay. This was the first time
that white men had followed the coastline of Melville Bay in its entirety.